i have a 98 hatch with 96 type r swap and im pretty sure i need piston rings.. my car smokes horribly at high rpms. however not at all while just cruising. im going to order valve seats but im sure its the rings.. :9

my question where do you recommend buying them from? im guessing the dealer howver i was just trying to find a site that may sell them cheaper than the stealership. also im assuming that i may as well change the bearings while im at.. and also head gasket and timing belt and all that good stuff... if you could point me in the right direction id greatly appreciate it

 

oemacuraparts.com or hondapartsunlimited for your parts. Both sites are cheap, and every part usually comes within a few dollars of each other, just cross reference all the part numbers so you can buy it at its lowest price.

 

thank you very much for the response

 

all type r motors smoke.. in vtec yo ... compression test leakdown test first before ripping ur poor motor apart.. 6 foot 7 foot 8 foot huh?

 

lot of things can do this

1. worn valve guides
2. hardened valve seals
3. rings
4. cylinders out of round

you might be able to get by with a hone and new rings but your cylinders need to be checked for out of round. also be careful who you have rebuild your cylinder head. very easy to screw up a vtec valve job. you may even want to just buy a new head from acura and sell your old one to someone doing a motor build

if you're keeping the car a long time this is one option. it will take time and it will chew up money.

plan B is selling your engine as is for 1500, adding 1100ish to it and buying another jdm itr long block that's been compression tested. the drawbacks are obviously that it's still a 1996-1997 engine which could have issues of its own

how much oil are you burning now anyway? a quart every 500 miles is generally when you start worrying

 

it loses about .5 quart ever 2500 miles, it ONLY smokes in vtec, daily driving doesnt burn a drop. i ordered new valve seals and guides yesterday, im a diesel mechanic so rebuilding a motor is easy to do, however i figure ill try the 40 dollar fix before tearing it down, like i said if i dont get on it at all its perfect (considering its my dd and i baby it) this really isnt a big deal. i have a "fast car" to play with, this is my econobox

 

 

sounds like it's in excellent condition.

if you ordered guides they better be from acura if you're using oem valves. seals oem or fel pro would work.

personally i wouldn't touch it. half a quart at 2500 miles is excellent. to this day i have never seen an R engine that burns zero oil. many burn a quart every 1500 miles. if you pull the head apart make sure the cam caps go on exactly as they came off and make sure you replace the rubber orifice ring. also back off the valve lash before re installing the cams. if you leave it set you can snap the cams on the re install.

only thing i can really drill atcha is to buy your parts from acura. not aftermarket. some engines like gen1 small blocks of a jeep inline 6 have great aftermarket parts that work just like oem or better.

not so with honda, the vast majority of aftermarket parts are sub par to oem and the good aftermarket parts like hks, mfactory etc are even more spendy than OE

 

i ordered it all from my local acura dealer (buddy works there) i had no idea these motors were known for burning oil.. makes me kinda mad.. lol, i hate not having a "mint" car, owell, shes a blast to drive and closest ill get to a real ctr or itr for a while lol,

 

if you burn half a quart every 2500 that is mint. many of these burned oil from day one. a few....don't seem to but the whole deal is with the casting process. honda bored these blocks hot from the foundry as you can imagine some shifted more than others. i've went through countless vtec motors and just now have one that appears to not burn oil. they seriously are pretty rare

 

on a update not, changed out the guides and seals today, and its still smoking a smidge.. i hit vtec 4 times and barely a puff, glad that its fixed (hopefully), going to the dyno tuesday to have it tuned (its on oem ecu for this motor)

 

good to hear, I guess Ill look into replacing guides as well with my rebuild

 

if i wer you i would, it took me maybe an hour to change it all (thats head on the block0 and taking my time

 

Do stock B-series blocks benefit from torque-plate honing with their open deck cylinders? Do the sleeves still go out-of-round once the head is torqued down like a closed deck block?

And lastly, does anybody do torque-plate honing for Honda motors? And how much would you expect to pay for this service?

I ask cause I've always thought about rebuilding my stock 96-spec B18C R with fresh OEM pistons, rings & bearings. I definitely want the best block prep possible if I do it.

Random torque-plate Picture for reference: