So my cel is on giving code 8 and 9 so im pretty sure my dizzy is ****t
car runs fine except when i first start it in the morning its idle is fast.

i have searched all morning and i cant' find a straight fwd diy on how to replace the dizzy. I'm worried about how to make sure I have piston one in TDC .


Any help would be appreciated

 

Remove old distributor, install new distributor, that's it. 3 bolts and 1 or 2 plugs depending one what year it is. You don't need to set it at TDC, just take note of how far ahead or back the old distributor is when you remove it so you can get the new one in roughly the same place. Ideally set the ignition timing with a timing light when you're done.

 

Any driveability issues? If you reset the ECU, do both codes (8 & 9) repeat? Any other codes?

 

Code 8 is TDC (top dead center) position sensor, other is CYP (No.1 cylinder) position sensor.

I've repaired many dizzys with codes like these and more. What I would do first is take off the distributor with the 3 bolts and once it's off the car, proceed to take the entire thing apart. Don't worry it's pretty simple to do. You'll have to take the cap off first, then rotor, then shroud (if applicable). After this you will be exposed to the coil (the big black box looking thing) and the igniter (the skinnier flat box looking thing). You'll need to take both of these out and also check all of the wiring as you do so. I had a no-start issue after replacing an igniter, turns out I had a bad connection with the wiring. Fired up perfect after I fixed that.

So yeah take the igniter and coil out and go get them tested at Autozone. If you replace the igniter, I'd recommend using an NEC brand one. You can find them in any 90-93 Honda Accord. NEC made the best Honda igniters, Hitachi and all the aftermarket brands have a higher fail rate. I have some pictures of a recent OBD2 GSR ECU I rebuilt for somebody. Even though it's a b-series it'll look almost the exact same on yours.

Hope this helps.

 

Codes 8 and 9, if they repeat, would not be thrown by a bad coil or igniter unit.

 

I have reset the ecu and im waiting to see if the codes come back again.

There' is no drive ability issues I have noticed. The only thing with the car is in the morning when its cold ( first star) it runs really fast and as it warm up it cools down.


I will watch it closely till the code comes again maybe im missing something.

As far as setting the timing after the dizzy is on is that very hard to do ?
I have taken a look ad read the service manual and some videos on the net but nothing is very clear .

 

@94preludeguy that write is awesome bro thanks

 

Code 9 is back this morning on my drive to work it just came on no noticeable difference when it came on .

When i pulled the code and the jumper was in the idle was really ruff up and down etc .

 

Measure the resistance of the CYP sensor. It should be 350-700 Ohms.

 

Badass. I still have my whole ITR dizzy I replaced with a new Richporter Technologies one. Now I wonder if I can fix it and sell it.
Saving for future reference. Thanks man.

Agreed.

 

You need to buy or rent a timing light and to jump the service connector. You will find the service manual page in the FAQs sticky. If you have specific questions after reading, post them.

 

So I'm trying to trouble shoot this dizzy and for the life of me i can't get this
connector apart . Any tricks or tips would be good as i don't want to break and thing pulling it apart

 

It's a two step process. First lift tab to unclip/release connector from metal support and then squeeze tabs to uncouple the connector.

What car and engine?

 

perfect thank you .

I read the resistance of the cyp circuit and its .968 so its way out of range all the other were .400 ish



So its say to say i have to replace the dizzy now ?

 

Absolutely.

(This assumes that the reading was 968 Ohms for the CYP sensor and 400 Ohms for the others.)

 

Any suggestions of where on line ( preferably in Canada ) to buy a new Dizzy?

 

It's best to buy the OEM replacement even though it's expensive.

Comparison shop the many Honda Parts stores online. They're listed in the FAQs sticky.

 

how do you feel about a used OEM dizzy ?

 

It depends on the number of miles the distributor has and its condition. Note that the average lifetime of a well maintained distributor is about 150K miles. Obviously, a new distributor will generally be the most reliable. And reliability is what you want most from a distributor.

 

what do you think of this as a replacement

http://www.autopartsway.com//PartDet.../pagenum1/tabS

 

I have no knowledge of it, though it's an inexpensive aftermarket (non-OEM) distributor, which is risky.

 

Richporter Technologies actually has a review thread HERE, on the HT forums. From what I'm reading, it's a good replacement.

 

Generally speaking pretty good. Make sure you check the bearing to see that it's not rusty (you can buy the bearing either online or from a local bearing supply place, just not from Honda)

 

So I replaced my dizzy with a brand new one yesterday
I cleared the code 9 and it came back today with anew code 9
Wtf....

Please help

 

Test the CYP wires for a short. If fine, swap in a known good ECU.