The engine warning light comes on after a few minutes of driving and it goes into limp mode and seems to puff out bluey, white smoke. However, it only puffs out this smoke when the engine warning light is on and the car is in limp mode.

Took my car to a garage and they did a Diagnostics Test and they came back with the error of throttle response sensor. I relpaced this with a whole new throttle body- easier and cheaper- and also changed the lambda sensor just in case but no luck. The garage said they had a hard time communicating with the ECU. I've also tried resetting the ECU.

Any ideas welcome!

 

A "hard time communicating with the ECU"?

For starters, find a new shop.

 

Pull the code using the service connector. If you don't know how, check the faqs at the top of the section. Let us know what codes it is throwing

 

Lol

 

13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS - speed sensor
54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor

 

Year/make/model? Any maintenance done? Modifications done?

 

1995 d16a6 1.6 vtec

k&n typhoon induction kit
decat
4.2.1 manifold
fuel reg
fuel rail
chipped p28 ecu

 

WOW,
Is all of this mess the result of a recent swap?
If it is research your particular swap more and correct some things.
maybe he did have a hard time communicating with it lol, as this is a plethora of crap codes, baro sensor should be integrated into the ecu so dont think thats servicable but dont quote me on it,

To be honest my first attemp at this would be using a known good ECU!
crank fluc sensor is obd2 correct me if im wrong, the one behind the crank pulley.

 

From what I understand, blue smoke indicates burning oil. White smoke/steam could be evaporated coolant or fuel vapor. Black smoke would indicate a rich condition.

I would also put in a known good ECU; I'd also adjust the FPR to stock specs if it can be done. Easier to diagnose what the car is supposed to be doing than what YOU want it to be doing.

 

the engine was swapped befor i got the car.
so you are saying try a new ecu might help and go from there

 

Yeah. The fact is, you don't know if the ECU in there right now is any good or not. That being the case, you'd be hard-pressed to determine whether or not anything else is doing what it's supposed to be doing.

 

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i dont think its chipped

 

What led you to believe it was chipped in the first place?

 

the guy i got it off said it was

 

I'm not familiar with what a chipped P28 is supposed to look like, but found this: http://www.hamotorsports.com/socketedp28.html

That's not what yours looks like. In any event, I'd just replace it to have the piece of mind.

 

That ECU is definitely not chipped. At least "the guy" didn't lie to you about it being a P28.

Start off by resetting your ECU, and finding out which codes come back after the reset.

 

what the hell kind of setup is this? d16A6 vtec? or d16Z6? and your throwing a CKF code? but you showed us a P28 ecu? ya ok bud...

 

yes sorry it is a d16Z6 also the Warning Light light come on when in on idle after about 3 mins and the cars runs a bit lumpy

 

So you purchased this car not knowing what exactly has been done to it? Just that it's swapped? Most likely it's a hack job, and the car needs to be re-done correctly from scratch. Start there.

 

yes ok i admit i my of mest up but lets see if i can put this right


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How is that picuture supposed to help us help you get the car running right. First, become educated on the parts installed on your car. Get a working ECU that matches the engine in the car.