I have a '94 VX with a 93 H22a and I'm having charging issues. I replaced the alternator twice from vatozone in the past week, and I bought a used stock Denso alternator. My dmm is reading 11.7V from the alternator, and there is no drop from the alternator to the battery (I know its supposed to read at least 14.5V). I doubt my alternator could be bad 3 times in 1 week. I replaced the power wire (from alternator to the fuse box) about a year and a half ago with 0 gauge wire. I have yet to disconnect it to run another wire, just to make sure its not the problem. But as I said there is no drop from the alternator to battery, still reading 11.7V. I don't think its my ELD either, because I don't have a CEL on.

Could it be the 4 wire "green" connector from the ecu to the alternator? Maybe wires are corroded and its not getting a proper signal from the ecu to charge? I'm stumped on this, any help is appreciated.
Thanks

 

??

 

have any of the alternators been tested and for sure are OK? yes make sure the connectors aren't corroded past recognition on the alt itself and on the connector, what is your battery light doing on the dash while this is happening? sounds like the alt is either NFG, or if the alternator tests to be ok, you have a wiring issue with either your postive feed, or one of the wires/contacts in the 4 wire plug is no good and causing the alternator to not "turn on"

 

all of the alternators have been tested at autozone. at first i thought maybe their tester may be messed up or something. so i purposely broke the first alternator and it failed, they gave me another and i asked them to test it first and it passed. but my car still doesnt charge.

I changed my power wire again just to make sure, and the same problem persists. when the car is on i disconnected my power wire on my battery and of course the car turns off. The actual connections on the alternator look good. the "green" connector is filled with dielectric grease. so im pretty sure its the 4 wire connector, could be where the wires are extended to fit the h22.

how would i go about testing this? when the car is on and i disconnect the connector, what would the voltage be for each of the wires when i test with my dmm? Thanks for the reply

 

When you turn the key from off to ON(II), does the charging system light (battery symbol) in the cluster turn on and stay on? Does the terminal for the Blk/Yel wire in the 4P alternator connector have battery voltage?

 

Sorry so long to reply been away for a while. The battery light doesnt come on at all. And I tested the black/yellow wire. I probed into it where it connects to the green connector and it's reading mV not V. Is it supposed to be reading volts? Therefore the mV means it has resistance in the wire somewhere? Thanks for the reply.

 

Check whether the charge light bulb in the cluster is blown.

 

you do know that the ecu will tell the alternator to turn on and off to help with fuel mileage right?

turn the car on, and turn all accessories on, and see if that doesn't bump the voltage up to 13.5-14 or so. if it does, you're all set.

 

Bulbs not blown, I drove it to my red line just a min ago and I can see it flickering past 7k rpm, but it's not completely on. With all the accessories on (at night) the charge doesn't last long at all. The headlights turn off and gauge needles don't work and is really dim. The voltage doesn't drop at the alternator with accessories on.

 

^This is the problem. The Blk/Yel wire in the alternator plug should have battery voltage whenever the key is in ON(II). Ohm test the wire between fuse 24 and the alternator plug.