Clutch or Bearing?
Hey i finally passed jci like a month ago and its running nice. I had a problem to where whenever i would switch gears and go i would hear a rattle for like 4 seconds and then it would go away. today as i was going onto kadena base i was in neutral and i put it in first to go up the line into the gate, when i took my foot of the clutch my car jumped and i i heard it grind and then it stopped.i thought maybe i didnt engage the clutch all the way, so i put it in neutral and started the car and it refused to go into gear at all, i tried again and then i tried start from first gear and as soon as i did it jumped and started grinding ugly so i shut it off and pushed it onto base and a guy was nice enough to help me push it into a parking lot and i told him about how i changed the clutch a mouth ago and pressure plate and fly wheel from upgarage, he asked if i changed the throwout bearing and i said no and he said that was my problem. does this sound like my throwout or do i have to change my clutch again? does anybody know a way to determine what it is? i am taking the tranny off tomorrow but i would like to order the part because it takes at least a week to get here, thanks!
For some reason, the clutch is not disengaging. What kind of clutch is it? Ive seen the pressure plate forks fold over where the throw out bearing makes contact causing a similar problem. Also, bleed the slave cylinder. You could have air trapped in there causing the slave to not travel enough to disengage the pp. A bad throwout bearing will usually result in a LOT of noise when the clutch is pushed it.... when the grenade, you can usually feel a "notchy-ness" like feel in the pedal as the pieces move around. Also, check the release fork to make sure its seated correctly and not damaged. Perhaps the bearing has popped off the end of the fork.
I got the clutch from a local shop called upgarage it was a spoon along with flwheel and pp, now when I changed the clutch I left the old bearing in, how are the supposed to fit, because mine was alittle shakey. I will try bleeding the lines again but if it wont disngage should I be able to start it from first without the grinding. I know, ast clutch I had when I bought the car had the same issue however I could start it from gear, but this time I cant.
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Sorry about the double post, when I posted the first one it gave me A message saying that it didn't post so I did it again and found out now that I have 2 post
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Try bleeding the fluid as others have said. You could also have an issue with the pressure plate springs being broken or some other issue with the clutch parts. I doubt it's a locked up throw out bearing. If it were, the car would stall as soon as you pushed the clutch in....whether it was in neutral or any gear. Although, you should always change throw out and pilot bearings when you do a clutch. The real problem is hard to diagnose unless you open it up. There's only so much accuracy with internet troubleshooting.
Also, never apoligize to anyone on the internet....or in person. Especially about something dumb like double posting.
Also, never apoligize to anyone on the internet....or in person. Especially about something dumb like double posting.
thanks B serious, i am about to go right now and try bleeding the line. I am hoping that it works if not then i will be up early tomorrow taking the tranny off. now after i have bleed the line, the best way to fill it is to keep the clutch pedal in as i fill it back up right? last time i kept the clutch popped out when filling it back up and used and air bleeder to suck the fluid through, and that was like 5 days ago when i changed it out. so when i do it should i have clutch it or out? thank you
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
I would do it with the pedal down. But it *shouldnt* matter if you're using a sealed bleeder system....either way...pedal down. I usually use the vacuum hose and bottle full of old fluid method. That way I can speed bleed.
Since you mention that it did the same thing with the old clutch, just not as bad... That show the problem is in the hydraulics of the clutch system. Either you have air in the system or the master or slave is failing. Fluid dark/black in color? You need to have someone press the clutch pedal and then check movement of the release fork visually. My guess is you will find its barely moving.
Well when I press it it feels light and it doesn't feel like it is fully disengaging. I will b in the shop tomorrow and i am sure somebody will help. Now to remove air all I do is have somebody pump the clutch and then hold as I open the bleeder valve and repeat untill it shoots straight and that will get rid of all the air right?
Hey guys thank you for all your post ! i took the tranny off today and the throw out was good and i thought i took it off for nothing but once i removed the clutch i found that one of my fly wheel bolts was sticking out and that destroyed all my springs , so now i ordered and new clutch and fly wheel bolts. thanks again for your help.
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Glad U figured it out. That's really dangerous. Make sure you're cleaning the flywheel and clutch bolt holes with brake cleaner, blowing them dry (same for the bolts themselves) and then torquing them to spec (76LBS. I use 80lbs) .
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