Car is a '00 Civic Si, replaced my stock trans with a CT-R LSD trans from HMO. Replaced the clutch, resurfaced flywheel, Torco MTF trans fluid. I had to replace the driver's side axle since it was pretty torn up when I pulled it out. I bought a O'Reilys "new" axle and got the car together. Took it for a drive and had a nasty pull towards the left under acceleration and a clunking noise around turns.

Took it to a few shops for their opinion and they said the axles were most likely the problem. I returned the axle and bought an Autozone reman'd, problem lessened but was still there. Took both axles out and found out the passenger side axle was bad as well. Took the Autozone axle back and bought two new axles from Carquest from FEQ (Chinese Manufacturer) the problem switched sides towards the right. Pulled the passenger side axle and it had a ton of play, took it back and replaced it. Problem then went back to the driver's side.

I pulled the driver's side and it seemed fine so I threw it back in but the problem is still there. Car pulls hard towards the left under acceleration and has a clunking or knocking noise while turning that can be felt through the steering wheel. Tires are at the same pressure, same make same size but the tread depth is off.

Are there any other things that could cause the issue I'm having?

 

Bump.

 

Bump! Going through the same thing (JDM-97 ITR [4.4,w/LSD] transmission)
replaced both axles
checked all bushing and balljoints, replaced inner/outer tie rods
suspension is buttoned up

was wondering if you got any further in your effort

 

Have either of you drove a FWD LSD tranny before?

 

No sir its a first for me Fwd and lsd.

Edit** I get what you're saying now. Did a little bit of search button action and google
I'm going to read up on it more.

 

It's normal, positive locking differentials lock the wheels so they spin at the same speed. When its on the front axle (or if you have a rear steer setup on an offroad vehicle) they clunk when the wheels are turned, since the inside wheel has a shorter distance to travel than the outside... so they can't turn at the same speed.

 

If it is the OEM Type R LSD there should not be any clunking. However if the previous owner upgraded to a Clutch Type LSD you will get clutch chatter and clunking in low speed turning from that type of differential As for the pulling to one side..a properly working differential will not cause that. But, since you stated you had an axle issue. It may be just a matter of getting the proper axles.

 

Not yet I'm at wit's end on this already lol.
Yes but it was a '08 MazdaSpeed3.
Yea I understand that part but the clunking / knocking can be felt through the steering wheel and it moves back and forth.
It's a stock CTR trans from HMO, '99 CTR with around 45,000 miles.

Ugh I hope it's not axles because I'm tired of pulling them out lmao.

 

that wobbling still sounds like an axle.

i know you say they are new, but i've had a multitude of problems with reman axles. (of course this is still maybe one problem for every 10 or more axles) the most recent problem ended up being the joints weren't packed with grease when they were assembled. but that's the gamble with any reman item.

the other thing could be a bad diff maybe. never had the displeasure of experiencing a diff go bad, but since it is a jdm trans.. it could be it has been equipped with some sort of aftermarket diff which has wearing components that could be bad at this point. no way hmo would've known. but i've seen plenty of aftermarket stuff come on jdm items. i'll credit james@gearspeed for giving me this idea.

this is of course assuming that all the balljoints and bushings in your suspension are up to par, which i think you went over earlier. but some people put their tie rods on flipped or aren't aware that grabbing and yanking isn't enough to see if something has worn loose.

sorry i don't have any real advice, but i thought i'd just share some of my experiences.

 

The axles are brand new they are not reman'd but they cost $60 a side so I didn't expect the quality to be on par with OEM or Raxles ($134.99 PER side)
I'm about 90% sure it's the axles and 10% sure it's the diff. I suppose I'll pull the axles again.

All the suspension components are stock and I've been over them but I have no way of checking them thoroughly enough to know if they're compromised.

Ugh I had a running car 3 months ago and I'm chasing a problem in circles.

 

Is there a way to check if the transmission has an upgraded LSD? besides cracking her open.
Thanks.

Good information.

 

its the fluid try useing the royal purple and positrac addtive it should do the trick u proably have a racing diff like a kaaz one so if u use the diff oil it ****s up the clutches in the diff causing it to chatter and clunk when u turn or do something

 

Exactly. Kazz diff in a DC5 hated normal Honda MTF3 gearbox oil. Clunked all the time when turning.

A flush and then the correct fluid = perfect.

 

I just put Torco MTF in there, hmm. That's not a bad idea I'll look into it.

 

Do you think the clutch packs could be grabbing so hard it could cause a pull to one side?

I'm using straight Torco MTF in it, maybe I'll buy some "Ford" LSD additive from Torco and try it out. What do you think?

 

Took my car to a Honda / Acura shop to see if they could diagnose it, they couldn't figure out what's wrong. I bought some "Posi-Trac" LSD additive for Fords to see if it will improve the symptoms I'm having.

Also to note I guess the circlip on the Carquest axle was too loose and was letting my axle walk in and out on the passenger side, thus causing the thumping sound. Upgraded the circlip and it went away, now I have chatter during low speed turns which James suggested.

Closer to figuring this out!

 

Problem solved, it was the trans fluid. 2.3 quarts of Honda MTF and 1/3 of "Posi-Trac" from Autozone. Took the car out for a drive and the problem slowly went away.

It still pulls to the left but I may need an alignment due to my R&P going out.

 

More update, the tire I had on the front left it's tread seperated and was causing the pull lol.

 

That is a funny cause. Replace the current fluid with straight Torco MTF.

 

That's what I was running at first, the problem was still there until I added the Posi-Trac.

 

I would change it back to Torco, otherwise you're just hurting the trans.