i have a 98dx with CTR swap with a JRSC kit on new fuel pump, injectors running on e85 jumped to obd1 with a good tune...well i would turn the car over but no fire..so i hardwired a toggle switch in for pump...now no fire and getting power in the dizzy....??

 

Why did you toggle switch the fuel pump?

Have you checked whether fuses 44,13, or 9 is blown?

CEL codes?

 

checked all fuses and relay just car is gutted and wires took a beating

 

You seem to already know what the problem is.

 

no i am lost.just cant get fire from the dizzy to the plugs..bug looks good

 

Your car is gutted and the wiring is bad. Is it a surprise that the engine won't start? What am I missing? If you want help, you'll need to supply a lot more details. We can't read your mind.

 

well put screw driver in plug wire same with just plug no spark the cap off test light says its getting power and ground..what more kind of details you need?

 

You've already mentioned that there's no spark.

There's so much you haven't told us.

Does the toggle switch mean that the fuel pump would not prime with the key? Why did you install the switch?

How did you test the three fuses I mentioned?

CEL codes?

Are you in the middle of an engine swap?

What does gutted mean?

What wires are damaged?

What ECU and wire harnesses were used for swap?

Pictures with clear descriptions are always helpful.

 

put the toggle so the fuel pump would kick on.check fuses with test light and even bought a new relay...yes its a JDM CIVIC TYPE R SWAP WITH ITS FACTORY JDM HARNESS..gutted means no heat or air back seats door panels or power steering and any extra weight is gone..the hot wire was dead on the fuel pump wire so i ran the toggle and fuel pump is good and pumps fine.. i think its a p28 but its tuned with chrome...if the timing was off would it not get spark either??

 

So actually, your engine lacks both fuel and spark.

1) Return the fuel pump wires to stock.

2) How did you do these tests? What did you find? Do fuse 44, 13, and 9 have voltage on both top test tabs? If so, does the main relay plug receive voltage via fuses 44 and 13?

3) Has the engine been running fine and now won't start? Or are you in the middle of swap? Give some background.

4) Is the G101 ground on the thermostat housing disconnected, loose, or corroded?

5) Any CEL codes?


If you want help fixing the problem, respond to all of these questions.

 

this is my first swap ever just to be known and not really a mechanic...just love the lil hatchie...i checked all my grounds cleaned the thermo ground up and tested fuses under dash and hood the relay replaced..i just check the 2 bolts in the dizzy and they have power... can u tell me where 44 13 9 is??? any under dash or hood? K toggle switch is gone and factory clip is back

 

Again, respond to ALL of the questions. Answers to the other questions?

There are fuse diagrams in the FAQs sticky.

44 = 15A hood ECU or PGM-FI main relay fuse
13 = 15A dash PGM-FI main relay/SRS unit (VA) fuse

 

OK 2 15 under dash dont light up but pull em out and they are fine all the other 15s even under hood light up

 

Write in English. Did you test fuses 44 and 13 for voltage on both top test tabs?

If you don't answer all questions, then this thread will be closed.

 

no volt meter.just test light

 

That was not my question. You are having reading comprehension problems.

This is a technical forum. If you can't/won't answer questions or do basic diagnostic tests, then this thread will be closed and you should hire a mechanic to solve your problem.

 

did hire a mechanic to install and tune alternative motorsports and abel racing check em out but if you wanna be a dick about it go ahead and feel better about yourself and close it down!!! and if a test light is a way to check if its good then they are all good and you are just as stumped as i am.....

 

/Thread

Technical forums like this one require the poster to provide detailed information about their car and the technical problem, and also possibly to do basic diagnostic tests to help pinpoint the problem. If a poster refuses to or cannot participate in this process, then the thread becomes an exercise in futility for this exclusively technical forum. In this case, the best option for all involved is for the poster to pay a mechanic to fix the problem.