arp b16 rod bolts whats the suggested torque 50-55 ftlbs???

and yes i know all about the stretch gage

 

25 ft lbs + 55 degrees

 

really? ive never seen any torque for a honda engine rather it be stock or ARP have yield type specs.

 

i found this and checked them accoringly


7 13204-P72-003 BOLT, CONNECTING ROD torque OEM 33lbf/ft ARP bolts use strethch gauge, approx 50-55lbf/ft

found here https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/engine-bolt-sizes-bolt-torque-diagrams-2001-gsr-listed-2840082/

 

damm car developed a tapping sound today, and i wanted to check to ensure its not from the bottom end so i went through all the torque specs tonight and they were spot on.

i located the area but its between the block/tranny/head where they all meet lol so its a process of elimination for me i guess.

 

any metal in the oil?

give a leakdown a try if it spun a bearing and lightly tapped the valve it might show with leakdown in that cylinder. hope the best

 

yah the oil was clean, and i just woke up out of my sleep saying damm valve so ill pull the head today

the last time i floated a valve i could turn the crank pully and feel it catching this time i dont

 

 

problem solved guess i need these lol

crank shows no signs of scarring and the caps look good as well

time to pull the head and look at it and the pistons

 

Only Tq ARP rod bolts to 2-5 lbft more than stock rod bolt spec ot you will oval the cap and spin the bearing just like the pic. APR's spec is only a few lbft more than stock.

 

yah i didnt assemble the engine the builder i use to go to did i verified about 33ftlbs

 

Yeah and crush the bearings and caps.

 

Yeah sounds right. My Ls OEM spec was like 23lbft I think and I tq my ARP rod bolts to around 26-30lbft, cant remember. Been driving the car like that for close to a year no issues.

 

having a hard time verifying the bearings by the part number on them though

p30/6b04c

 

So your just gonna slap new brgns in there ?

 

yah right

no

ordered calico coated acl's .10 under and will polish the crank

 

yeah i just checked the 8mm ls/d16 specs and it was 26ft/lbs. you do have to get the big ends honed out as they can/do oval with the extra torque.

sanman, hopefully the rest of the motor is okay, and you can get it back up and going again with minimal time/money

 

i took it all apart head is good/pistons look good

all the other bearings were fantastic lol me and number 4 have always had issues for some reason

 

i wont lie i did think about just throwing standard sized bearings back in it and see what happens because the crank dont look bad

but better judgment prevails

 

I wonder if it is possible that the engine builder didn't do the 3 step torque stretching
procedure upon first assembly.

 

yeah its possible. heres what i did.

put the new studs in with the vice in my garage. then you put the cap on, use the moly lube and tq the nuts and rodcap down. loosen it up and remove the cap. do this 3 times total. then, with the rod cap on and torqued to spec, i brought the rods to my machine shop to be checked and honed to make sure there is no out of round on the big end. ive done this on 2 engines now never had a problem

 

sounds like a gimmick.