TB Butterfly Sticking Closed
Hi my car 91' Accord with 173,000 miles has been doing this since I got the car and am wondering if there is a way to fix it. When I let go of the pedal a to apply the brakes or leave the car. The pedal sticks closed, I have cleaned the TB and still the same thing. You can not move the TB by hand under the hood, unless you hit it with something. It is also hard to move inside the car, I have to hit the pedal then the rpms jump to 1500 then back down, but sometimes it is restuck after.
Does anyone know how to fix this? Thanks
Does anyone know how to fix this? Thanks
Have you ever adjusted the throttle stop screw?
How tight is your throttle cable? there should be some slack in the cable.
The throttle stop screw in it's factory position will not allow the throttle plate to close all the way. If it has been moved or somehow moved on it's own. You may have to adjust it so that the throttle plate does not jam inside the throttle body.
How tight is your throttle cable? there should be some slack in the cable.
The throttle stop screw in it's factory position will not allow the throttle plate to close all the way. If it has been moved or somehow moved on it's own. You may have to adjust it so that the throttle plate does not jam inside the throttle body.
I actually had to loosen the throttle cable because the throttle was staying open a little and causing my idle to stay up around 1100 and if I pulled on the back of the gas pedal it would drop to around 600 then up to idle.
But the throttle stop screw I never touched.
What is the adjustment for the throttle stop screw.
And if the throttle cable is too tight will it cause it to stick?
But the throttle stop screw I never touched.
What is the adjustment for the throttle stop screw.
And if the throttle cable is too tight will it cause it to stick?
If it's too tight it usually causes the throttle to stay open not closed. However, ether way it should not be really tight.
Before you make any adjustments to the throttle stop scew. You want to make sure the throttle body is completely free of carbon build up. With the engine off, hold the throttle plate open with your hand. Look inside and see if there are any large ridges of black/carbon build up or any other type of obstructions. If there are any they should be cleaned out/removed first.
Can you post up any pictures of the front/inside of your throttle body?
Something like this;
Before you make any adjustments to the throttle stop scew. You want to make sure the throttle body is completely free of carbon build up. With the engine off, hold the throttle plate open with your hand. Look inside and see if there are any large ridges of black/carbon build up or any other type of obstructions. If there are any they should be cleaned out/removed first.
Can you post up any pictures of the front/inside of your throttle body?
Something like this;
Probably is! Your best bet would be to get a new gasket and remove the throttle body. If you are unable to reach it while it is on the intake. Getting at it from the back of the TB is much easier.
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I just want to share, I've had a TB with an untouched, factory set, throttle position screw, have the throttle plate wear a small groove into the throttle body and cause it to stick. Here's how I cleaned and adjusted the TB on my 1991 Honda Accord LX:
First, I removed the throttle body. Then, I grabbed a can of throttle body / carb cleaner and sprayed down the whole inside of the TB and took a tooth brush until the inside was squeaky clean. I even removed the throttle plate and cleaned it and the bar holding it. This was not sufficient to keep my throttle plate from sticking.
I needed to adjust my throttle stop screw. My throttle stop screw still had the factory yellow blob intact indicating it had not been adjusted; somehow the throttle plate had worn a small groove in the throttle body. Note, you should not adjust your throttle stop screw without immediately thereafter adjusting the throttle position sensor. The throttle position sensor is not intended to be user servicable (at least on my generation of car), but that doesn't mean it isn't.
First, I adjusted the throttle stop screw until it just barely held the throttle plate next to/onto/just above the throttle body. It should not stick, but there should also be as little gap as humanly possible.
Next, I used a cut off wheel to cut slits into the rivets on the throttle position sensor; the slits allow you to use a flathead screwdriver to open up the sensor.
From there, I used a multimeter to adjust the throttle position sensor such that it read the appropriate voltage when closed, and also when wide open. I forget the exact adjustment procedure and the exact values, but they can be had with just a little bit of searching.
From there, I reset the ECU, and let it relearn, and everything worked perfectly; no more sticking.
First, I removed the throttle body. Then, I grabbed a can of throttle body / carb cleaner and sprayed down the whole inside of the TB and took a tooth brush until the inside was squeaky clean. I even removed the throttle plate and cleaned it and the bar holding it. This was not sufficient to keep my throttle plate from sticking.
I needed to adjust my throttle stop screw. My throttle stop screw still had the factory yellow blob intact indicating it had not been adjusted; somehow the throttle plate had worn a small groove in the throttle body. Note, you should not adjust your throttle stop screw without immediately thereafter adjusting the throttle position sensor. The throttle position sensor is not intended to be user servicable (at least on my generation of car), but that doesn't mean it isn't.
First, I adjusted the throttle stop screw until it just barely held the throttle plate next to/onto/just above the throttle body. It should not stick, but there should also be as little gap as humanly possible.
Next, I used a cut off wheel to cut slits into the rivets on the throttle position sensor; the slits allow you to use a flathead screwdriver to open up the sensor.
From there, I used a multimeter to adjust the throttle position sensor such that it read the appropriate voltage when closed, and also when wide open. I forget the exact adjustment procedure and the exact values, but they can be had with just a little bit of searching.
From there, I reset the ECU, and let it relearn, and everything worked perfectly; no more sticking.
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