Ok so here's my story.. please don't get mad and flame me.. I'm trying to learn and search all I can to get this straightened out.

So I recently bought a 2000 Civic EX, which I assumed to be the D16Y8.. bought from a dealer, 5 speed, with a clean carfax, so figured no problem..

Car will not rev past 5500 RPM.. So I figure this is something VTEC oriented.. I figure no big deal for now, I'll just keep it below that rev range for now. Well I decided to change oil, clean throttle body, and mass airflow sensor..

Now it sputters at low RPM as well.. seems only good RPM is between 3000-5500 RPM.. So I cleaned the IACV, seemed to help for about 15 minutes..

So I look into it more, I see on my block is a stamp that says D15B.. so a quick search pulls up JDM engine.. With different variations.. Could be non-VTEC, VTEC, or 3 Stage VTEC.. I havn't quite figured out how to locate the solenoid yet, so I'm not sure which I have.

I have a Kiwi Blutooth adapter, which pulls up codes P0500, P1259, and P1337.

Then I looked into it more, and the D15B needs either it's stock P08, or P28 ecu, unless it's 3 stage, then it needs it's P2J.. So I look at my ECU in the kickplate and it's a stock US EX P2P..

So Now I'm thinking this could very well be where my problem lies.. So.. I need to know how I identify which exact D15B I have, and which ECU I need to get to make this work.

 

Your problem is that you need to trot this thing BACK down to the dealer and have them fix the issues. He sold you a lemon.

 

I don't know that lemon is the right word, but if he never mentioned the motor swap, you should definitely go have a long conversation with the dealer about fraud. He told you the car was one thing, and you got something else.

 

Ok so I eliminated the CKP code, because the D15B doesn't have one.. so it took some splicing.. It is definately the non-vtec d15B which I Believe now to be a D16y7 head.. so I have no idea really why this was done, and why a P2P vtec ecu was left in there.. my question is, can I get a P06 ECU, swap them out and have everything run well?

 

If you recently bought it.....you get 30-90 days by law (depends on state)
Take it back. You shouldn't have to sort out any problems if you purchased from a dealer, thats why there is the warranty and why you paid 2x what the car is worth.

If you wanted a car to sort problems out of, you could hop on craigslist and buy 96-2000 civics for 1200-1500 all day long, some even stock / running ok/ no weird b.s. swap where you have to figure out what was done/what corner was cut etc.

 

Seriously, stop ****ing with the car and take it to the dealership.

 

p06 is an obd1 ecu so you would have to get a conversion harness since your car is obd2b.

can you post pics of the motor. someone may be able to give more info based on IM design, valve cover, etc.

ps, thanks for actually taking the time to research, pull codes and make a good title for your thread. most people just come on with no info and get flamed.

 

Ya they used there thumb up your bumb with out a love glove... Take that back and tell them you want the correct d16y8 put in or your money back

 

Wow what a headache. I recently picked up a 95 ej1 in 95 exclusive paradise blue green bg33. It was at a used car dealership here in the bay area. Payed 2800 cash and its completely factory original. Nice healthy z6. Nice black interior with honda access armrest console. My point is, know what youre buying, do your homework, and above all: test drive it kinda hard, if u would have done this u would kno it wasnt a y8 in there and u woulda saved urself a lot of greif. Good luck man hope u get it sorted out.

 

Yes. If I were you I would tell the dealer you want your money back AND whatever you spent trying to fix it. If they refuse have the States Motor Vehicle Office of the Attorney General handy to file a complaint. That is the last thing they want to hear...

 

I bought a 99 civic hatch from a dealer. Same problem. Had a d15b7 in it running off the p2e ecu. Called and bitched a lot and got refunded $500 to buy a motor to replace it with and got to keep the d15.

 

I'm pretty sure the law for swapping engines is that it has to be of the same year or later. That would be a good argument if you were going to make one.

 

^^^^^ and IT HAS TO BE OF THE SAME KIND (model, cylinders, etc) with regards to the VIN and line sheet.

 

the solenoid is on the head....my friend bought a 97 ex when he showed it to me it has been converted to obd1 and had a 1990 engine in it so it happens to everyone but since you did buy from a dealer I would get my money back

 

This is why I stay away from dealers. But seriously take it back. You were buying an EX that should have a y8 in it. The dealer didn't say anything about the motor and you probably paid full price for it. Take it back and don't take no for an answer.

 

He's not going to take it back. He already started working on the problems himself.

 

Best thing to do is just take it back to the dealership

 

No it doesn't. Federally, it just has to be out of the same year car or newer, and must pass emissions checks to the same specifications, if not better. You also cannot mix and match motor types - a light truck motor cannot go in a car, and vice versa. If you want to pick up an SR20DETT and figure out how to get it in your EG, you're fine. Wanna put an LS1 'vette motor in your CRX? Knock yourself out.

 

dealers are no problem as long as u kno wat ur lookn at. pretty hard to scam somebody who knows what the car they want should have, and can visually identify things like motor codes or vertical y7 intake manifolds. i picked up my car at a dealer and got exactly what i was looking for. it just varys person to person i guess. kid if u still have ur d15 ex please just take it back, dont take the dealer shaft.