NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS, 1994 so NO OBD2..

1994 Civic Coupe EX
232k Miles, Manual Transmission. Everything was told to be original.


Ran fine for a week after buying it, now I cant fix this Issue.

COLD START UP, GREAT idles awesome, sounds great, no misses, no loss of power.

After about 10-15 minutes of driving, LOW RPM power LOSS until you hit 3K+ then it JUMPS and runs great....

Come to a STOP, it now idles like crap, and MISSES, its a CONSISTENT miss.(figure it to be 1 cylinder)

This all lead me to ignition system, or FUEL injectors.

I REPLACED:
*Spark plugs weeks before issue
*WIRES LOOK FINE< NOT REPLACED
*DISTRIBUTOR CAP WAS TOAST<REPLACED TODAY(went to clean post, so crusted it broke off)
*DISTRIBUTOR ROTOR REPLACED FOR GOOD MEASURE TODAY
*FUEL FILTER REPLACED TODAY> Because of good power at HIGH RPM I have eliminated Fuel pump, WAS NOT TESTED for PSI....

Plugs rechecked and look FINE


ANY IDEAS?


I went through HANES manual, I figured the IGNITER Unit looked like crap, COULD NOT FIND PART ANYWHERE, Hanes says it SHOULD be available to purchase??? PLEASE DO NOT CONFUSE WITH IGNITION MODULE. NOT 100% sure this is issue, as it runs fine on cold start, and high RPM, I would think it being MAIN power transfer, the engine would fail to start if it was bad....





A consistent 1 cylinder miss leads me to believe its a Fuel Injector....

Can I check FI one by one?

NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS, 1994 so NO OBD2..


I am no mechanic, and doing this in my driveway, would prefer tips, and pointers of what do to next, HOW to check FI quickly, and easily..... Rockauto has REMANs for $38 each, or Orielly for $100 each.... If it comes down to it I might just replace all 4, but cost IS an issue right now.....


Thank you for reading, I know its a longer post, but I NEED help....

 

Did you pull the injectors to observe the spray pattern or that they are all even spraying?

 

Would have no idea how to go about doing that....

Just test drove it again, to get it to start missing.

Parked it, and the #1 injector was *clacking* louder then the other 3, doing the long screw driver to the ear trick....

I read CAT going back can also create loss of power??? But would it create an idle 'miss'





Im thinking about just ordering 4 of the re-manufactured FI's.....

 

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...UTOR+%28TEC%29


http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...NTAKE+MANIFOLD


I would think it's either the injector or the ignitor. The ignitor is available through honda.

 

 

$176 for the ignitor, or $179 for a rebuilt ditributor....

Got to love stealerships.....

Thanks for the post though! I will google the parts numbers and see if it comes up cheaper then that, but I doubt much cheaper if MSRP is $251....

 

What is the circled part called? I thought it was the Igniter by the Chilton, but now I am second guessing it....

 

i.also.have.a.similar.problem.my.rpms.when.my.eg.i s.warmed.up.drops.and.my.oil.light.comes.on..idles .low.but.drives.smooth....need.advice.wat.could.it .be.

 

WHILE RUNNING DISCONNECT INJECTORS ONE AT A TIME SEE IF YOU CAN TELL A DIFFERENCE IN THE IDLE. IF IDLE DOES NOT CHANGE THEN IT IS A CLOGGED INJECTOR. ONCE UNPLUG CUTS OFF FUEL SUPPLY TO THAT CYLINDER WHICH SHOULD CAUSE A HARSH IDLE. SINCE YOU HAVE A HARSH IDLE ALREADY THE INJECTOR THAT DOES NOT CAUSE IDLE PROBLEM IS THE PROBLEM. ALSO ON THE BACK SIDE OF THE MOTOR THERE IS A 2 PIN CONNECTOR (GRAY), IT IS THE CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR MAKE SURE IT IS PLUGGED IN AND NOT BROKEN.

 

Turn off caps lock. Like, now. Please.

 

I actually ran a whole can of Seafoam through it at 1/4 tank, and now its not losing power, and running OK. Still a little ruff, but for $10 it bought be a couple more months I think... I still think the injector is on its way out, I can head it making a clacking noise. I put a long screw driver to my ear, and touched each one, and found the #2 one makes a bit louder noise...



I need to replace rack and pinion before injectors