Whats up guys! Been working on getting my car ready to boost for a while. I have been researching alot here in the forced induction forum! I just knocked out all my maintenence and will be pulling the car into the garage to start assembling and installing the turbo kit.



Here is what I've got as it sits:

96 civic cx

body:
Rota slips
CTR wing
CTR replica lip kit and grille
VIS OEM style carbon fiber hood

Engine:
LS stock block, stock head
JG intake mani
69mm TB
Moroso oil pan
Innovative mounts
AVID torque mount
Just replaced timing belt, tensioner, cam seals, valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket

Trans:
GSR
OBX LSD
Spec stage 3 clutch
RTEC short shifter
Solid shifter bushings

Mangement:
Hondata S300
Hondata 4 bar map sensor
AEM UEGO
Walbro 255
Precision 650cc injectors

Parts not installed yet:
Inlinepro T3 turbo manifold
TIAL 38mm wastegate
Tial BOV
Goautoworks charge piping kit
Goautoworks oil line kit
24x12x3 FMIC
EBAY 57 trim ( ya i know I need something better but I will have to upgrade later)
I have my flanges to fabricate the dumptube and downpipe




Goal was 300whp on pump gas on a dyno jet, but I'm going to have it tuned on a mustang dyno so I will settle for 270whp.

My daily is up and running now, so I will be starting the install very soon. Updates may be a little slow.

 

I know e85 is good stuff but only when being used to its potential. Its cheaper but you use more fuel so less MPG. Pump gas is more than suffecient for 300whp. Just my .02 everythign else looks good to me. Good luck with the build and power goals

 

Maybe I will just stay pump gas then...I knew it would be suffecient for 300whp, but figured it would give a little more saftey factor against detonation! If I get some more money down the road I will send you my cams! I know its a good idea to upgrade the springs and retainers when using them but is it required?

Literally just picked up my Charge piping, oil line kit, clamps and couplers! Really happy with my purchase from GO-AUTOWORKS! Looks like high quality parts!

 

Yes any aftermarket cams in an LS head needs valve spring upgrades

 

do I see oregon plates? turbo ls is right, you should have no prob hitting 300whp on pump. took my ls turbo 17lbs to get there with a ebay turbo and bone stock everything else.

 

not true at all, it depends on the profile, i have a set of crane cams here that do not require a valve spring upgrade, crane actually made 3 different sets of LS cams that didnt require a valve train upgrade at all.

 

Cams will be later down the road...the extra rpm range would be nice! Still undecided yet on which ones though.... Either going to be JG303....or a web cam regrind!


And no not oregon! Keep guessing lol

 

Not the 402s as long as you keep the stock redline. But 402 cams are not worth the effort IMO.

 

Been checking out the oil line kit I got....It looks like I have a plug that is intended to be drilled through the oil pan which the 10AN fitting screws on to on the other side. I have a moroso pan installed already. I did some searching and cant seem to find what size or thread pitch the plug is. Anyone know? do I just need a 10AN to 10AN union?

 

Ok let me rephrase my statement since we're all being so literal. Any cams worth a damn that make a good improvement ad allow for higher rpms and larger turbo selection require valve springs

You can run the jg303's without valve springs too and maintain stock redline but the potential of the cam profile exceeds stock redline so therefore a waste unless valve springs are upgraded

One of the larger problems of the ls is the low revs and poor cam profile. Giving more duration and lift allows the powerband to be shifted to allow for better top end airflow and power production

 

Well I got a LITTLE bit done.

The DC sports header is off. I test fit the inlinepro mani and wastegate. I have plenty of hood clearance for the wastegate! Wish I had some bolts to fasten the turbo to the manifold but bolts never crossed my mind when I was grabbing tools from work. I also clocked the compressor housing to where it needs to be! Ealier this week I ordered a 1/2 to 10AN adapter fitting for my oil return line.

 

You probably need 1/2" NPT -> -10AN

 

Its already ordered, thanks though!

 

whoops... didnt read your last post.

 

Worked on the hatch a little yesterday. I figured out the thread pitch and bolts size for the turbo to the manifold, M10x1.25, ended up getting some stainless studs from a friend at work. I sourced some lock washers and nuts. I test fit the turbo only to find out that there was not enough clearance to use the 2 studs closest to the block. Looks like I'm going to have to use bolts on them. I was thinking about using something like this, it should give me plenty of clearance, but I wondering it I these would be sufficient? (as in be able to apply enough torque)




A pic of the turbo mounted



I plan on installing the oil return line this weekend!

 

what about colt cams or some 404's?

 

the victorx intake manifold is too big for your setup IMO.

 

Lookin great!

 

Stock Cams are in the budget right now!

I agree it probably is but thats what I have...I also dont think its a Victor X. I believe this manifold was pre victor series manifolds.

Thanks


Well I had planned to to work on the oil return line this weekend, but that got screwed up. Wnet to work saturday to get tools and forgot to grab my allen head socket set, and then on top of that didnt grab my shears to cut the steel braided line. My 1/2 to 10AN adapter fitting did come in. I have taken care of a few more little things, looking at the turbo I realized the oil return line side was on top, and the feed line was on bottom. So I clocked the exhaust housing, and re clocked the compressor housing. I removed the front bumper and and did some test fitting. It looks like the bumprer suppor is gonna have to go. I'm just going to have to build a bracked to mount the FMIC. I also thought it was kinda funny there was no hole behind the passenger headlight. I guess since it had a D16Y7 they didnt cut it out being that the airbox was right on top of the throttle body. Hopefully I will have some real progress sson. Looks like i'm going to have to borrow a flux wire welder and Sawsall!

 

Stock cams are best for 300whp. You only need cams if youre looking for 500+

 

keep it up. You'll get there

 

I got brand new k series part, anyone interested hit me up and for good good price too (646)639-0443

 

OP, all those nice part on there.. don't ruin it with that turbo!! get a nice turbo/downpipe combo from go-autoworks!



nu uh rly?

 

trust me if I had an extra 800$ I would but I dont. And I will be fabricating my own down pipe.

 

That manifold is intended to have the compressor on the opposite side