Hi just want to confirm if there is anything else I need for my turbo setup so far this is what I have got

Garrett turbo with internal actuator
sump with oil return fitted
turbo manifold
down pipe
Blitz sbc boost controller
boost gauge
blitz bov
braided oil feed line
braided water cooled lines
550cc rc injectors
gaskets
aem wide band
p28 socketed ecu
welbro fuel pump
Intercooler kit
K&N filter
1 step colder spark plugs
oil pressure gauge
New ignition leads cap coil fitted
oil, oil filter
fuel filter

remap once everything is fitted. If anyone can please confirm the above is correct or if am missing anything

thanks

 

Wastegate?

 

Sorry my bad the turbo has got a internal actuator

 

Charge pipe, couplers, and t-bolts. I would go with a manual boost controller. I would go with a boost solenoid and do boost by gear.

 

One step colder plugs, new cap, rotor and wires
New fuel filter
New oil filter and 4qts of full synthetic oil
Vacuum lines for waste gate, BOV and boost controller
Dyno tuning!!!!!
Crank case vent can is a very good idea
A oil pressure gauge is a good idea as well
and lastly some track time, the best part
What motor and sized turbo are you running?? What is your power goal???

 

First post edited looks like i have got everything apart from Crank case vent can. Any idea best way to hook up a catch can? Can you leave the pcv valve disconnected?

Motor is a b18c4 And turbo is a Garrett T3 only aiming for 250/260bhp for the time being.

At the moment its producing 185bhp with the following parts fitted

Tri y header
ek9 type r cams
bmc filter
2.5" b pipe with mugen twinloop backbox
skunk2 inlet manifold
70mm throttle body

thanks

 

I assume the B18C4 is the same as the USDM and JDM B18C1 in the GSR, good motor to start with. 250-260whp is no problem. Ok I got that it is a Garrett T3 turbo what are the specs on it. The size turbo you use has everything to do with when and how much power you make.

 

I don't think he needs to go with BBG since he's probably not going to be running too much boost anyhow.

 

Agreed. Boost-by-Gear is not needed at all for this application.

 

Yeah not for a DD street car. It is nice to have but not needed. If it was a high HP drag car then yes boost by gear for sure to get traction off the line.

 

IF you care about DRAG RACING. Very few enthusiasts in the U.K. worry about that kind of stuff. There are also those in the U.S. at higher than 400whp, that don't use it either. Because the world doesn't always revolve around drag racing, where it is used most.

 

Could not agree more. There is so much more to life then a high peak number. Especially in real world day to day use.

 

Need a little help can I leave the pcv valve disconnected and leave it hanging down?

Thanks

 

Yes true. I Will be doing a boost by gear one I get my block built and build my 500+whp street/weekend racer setup done, but I still need to get the stock block boosted first LOL.
I agree that a real world street Honda does not need more than 350whp even that is stupid fast and cant get the power to the ground.

 

If you do a crank case vent can correctly you can remove the PCV system all together as it will not be needed. All crank case pressure will vent to atmosphere. I just have a small Ebay oil catch can that I modified into a vent can with a Filter on top and a drain back into the block, I got the H22 block fittings for the vent source on my B18 block and ran oil resistant lines from the block to the vent can.

 

I think it has a lot to do with marketing and magazines. They have pumped the idea into most people's heads that having a big number is more important than anything else. Throttle response is where it's at, I would hate driving a car that the gas pedal is just basically an off switch.

 

Pretty much.. It amazing how many marketing scenarios always make people believe that if they don't have it, the car will never drive correctly ever again. But again, its for the masses that don't drive that great and want to drag race a FWD... Kinda like stability control in SUVs; it makes the driver believe he's a better driver than he actually is.

 

Good brakes and suspension?

 

Its more than just parts.

 

running 282mm calipers on front and 262mm calipers on rear. Car has tein coilovers fitted 6point roll cage.

Is a vacuum manifold ideal to get?

Also if I didnt wanna run a catch can would it be ok to disconnect the pipe on the pcv valve and leave it hanging?

thanks

 

did you remember to get one of these?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140724913658...#ht_507wt_1396

^

 

if you don't want to run a catch can you can buy a 94+ supra twin turbo pcv, they fit in the oem location on a type r and should other black boxes as well. well, at least you could try, worst case you buy the tube for the ITR that comes off the black box. the supra PCV has a positive stop when pressure hits it, no leaking like a oe honda pcv, they also flow more. this puts vacuum on the crankcase when you're out of boost

then just vent the VC with a filter or a line going to the air filter tube on your turbo

 

Thanks for the reply

Would this one be fine

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SC1013-PCV...item58917257e8

 

Anyone confirm if this setup is fine

Catch can with filter on top and 2 ports
1st port from catch can going to valve cover
2nd port from catch can going to black box on the block where the pcv valve goes?

Also when connecting 2nd port from catch can do I remove the pcv valve from the black box and use a open valve or should i leave the oem pcv valve connected?

thanks for all the help

 

Anyone?