My95SlvrBlt

Ok, so i bought a complete turbo setup from a friend a few months back.... bottom line, i didnt have enough oil getting to the turbo, and a seal went. I then replaced it. Got the new turbo on there around july 28th. I have a -4an feed line with is plumbed by a greddy oil filter sandwhich adapter. I have had no low oil situations, and oil level is checked damn near daily. tonight after coming home, i was boost leak testing my car, i then replaced my fuel injector orings(where they mate into the manifold), i then drained the oil, pulled the filter, and then proceded to pull my downpipe off of the exhaust housing, i put some copper rtv, replaced the bolts, and put it back together, put the new filter on, put the oil in, and go to drive..... i see smoke from the engine bay. This was no shock because i had used wd40 when i tapped the bolt holes on the housing(rtv makes it rough to thread in)

So im now driving, letting it all burn off..... and it begins smoking from the exhaust...... I thought it had stopped, but i pulled over again to check, and it was now getting worse, i checked everything, the only visible leak is from one of my cam seals which has backed out on the exhaust cam. either way, i still have full level oil, but when i rev at all it creates an enormous amount of smoke from the tailpipe(exact same thing it did last time)

My question is... WHY? What would cause the turbo seal to go out after not even 4000 miles of use, and a proper break in period on it? I also just read that the garrett turbos have all of a 30 day manufacturer warranty.....

Tchleung

covner to a 3an line with a restrictor or reducer

My95SlvrBlt

Why do you say that?

Tchleung

most times I ever hear of a turbo blowing seals is too much oi. either return line is kinked or too small. or feed line is too big.

My95SlvrBlt

return line is for sure not kinked.... could boost leak testing it affect this? not that its any different then just driving and holding boost. but as my oil was SLOWLY dripping from the pan, i finished some things up, and when i looked again there was a puddle. if the oil was drained out of the turbo, theres still gonna be a residue, and pressure builds back up almost immediately after starting again.

My95SlvrBlt

and from everything i have seen, too much pressure is a problem, -3an=higher pressure then -4an, -4an would just flow more.

My95SlvrBlt

help!

Boosted2K

Try this, after the car has sat for a while. Pull the return line at the pan, Does oil come pouring out???
If it does there is your problem, the line is backing up. If it just dribbles out you are good, and change your feed to -3AN.

My95SlvrBlt

well like i said, when i changed the oil, it was sitting, no problem, then after my oil was drained, i finished some things then underneath the car was a apuddle. I still dont see how having a -4an feed linewould hurt tho, enough to **** my turbo in about 4k miles.

Tchleung

Yes it may be higher oil pressure but the 4AN might just be too much volume flooding into the turbo. Too fast where the return line cannot drain the turbo fast enough. Either that or try changing your return hose to a 12AN line instead of 10AN(1/2") sicne 12AN matches the drain outlet perfectly.

ID_ten_T

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted2K &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try this, after the car has sat for a while. Pull the return line at the pan, Does oil come pouring out???
If it does there is your problem, the line is backing up. If it just dribbles out you are good, and change your feed to -3AN. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i've never heard this before. no disrespect boosted2k, is this true? can anyone else confirm? thanks.

GSRBoi785

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ID_ten_T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i've never heard this before. no disrespect boosted2k, is this true? can anyone else confirm? thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes its true because if u dont place the oil return above the oil level on the pan it will not be able to escape the line making it back up and eventually cause your seals to go

ID_ten_T

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSRBoi785 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yes its true because if u dont place the oil return above the oil level on the pan it will not be able to escape the line making it back up and eventually cause your seals to go</TD></TR></TABLE>

i understand this, but wont the motion of the car and the movement of the oil (to the back of the pan, like the feeling you get pushed in the seat) allow the oil to drain? in addition, if the vehicle has been sitting for a while, doesnt that mean that there is less oil in the system and more oil in the pan then compared to when it is actually operating?

djwest24

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ID_ten_T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i understand this, but wont the motion of the car and the movement of the oil (to the back of the pan, like the feeling you get pushed in the seat) allow the oil to drain?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

its just the initial G's tht might push the oil out to the pan. but after a while, whn u stop accelerating, and just coasting, the oil's not gonna roll back to the end of the pan anymore. and whn u come to a stop, it will all be pushed back again anyway.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ID_ten_T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
in addition, if the vehicle has been sitting for a while, doesnt that mean that there is less oil in the system and more oil in the pan then compared to when it is actually operating?</TD></TR></TABLE>

if ur oil return is tapped below the oil level in the pan, how will it push through and drain, whn there's no pressure in the system? it'll just be sitting in the line. and if the car is running, more oil is fed to the turbo, with no place to go. the return doesnt have the pressure to push through the oil in the pan, but has enough to push the oil past the seals after the drain line is backed up.

Boosted2K

It works, I know this from experience. I was getting an oil burning smell every once in a while. While on the lift I pulled the return from the turbo side first and got sprayed with oil, I knew that bastard was backing up on me.

My problem was that I was simply overfilled on oil (thanks to a friend). Almost killed a brand new turbo, so when I do an oil change I unscrew the fitting on the pan side, then fill the motor until it dribbles out the fitting, check the oil level (should read good if your fitting is welded high enough).

Connect that **** back up and start the car. Thats how I know for sure mine doesn't back up anymore

My95SlvrBlt

well the fitting is as high up on the pan as possible, id need to get it onto a lift to actually check that its not backing up. either way, i dont see how its possible, also how a -4an would make that big of a difference from the -3an. My cam seal having popped out, is now leting oil basically pour out while running, however after a 1 mile drive trying to get closer to home(about 20mph under the speed limit) i can see a ton of oil leaking from that, however, i feel no excessive or even heat on the turbo that makes it so that i cant touch it, i can also feel heat from oil going down the return, if a seal was bad and was leaking oil would it not heat up from the fact that its not got enough pressure?

reaction360

if u do a search, you'll find that alot of people have had issues with they're oil line lettin in too much oil which is why alot of honda owners run oil retrictors. usually, a -3an line is fine without an oil restrictor. anything bigger may need an oil restrictor. I myself had this problem till i put an oil restrictor on the feed line before the turbo.

AzntaggeR

i've heard that anything bigger then a -3AN line for oil feed will blow the oil seal, not because of the pressure but because of the volume of how much oil is being fed.

wade

iTrader: (1)

honda oil pumps OWN turbos as i read this forum quite often. As rumors are told, i hear turbos dont want amymore the like 60-65 psi of oil and most hondas produce more then that ever at normal cruising on the highway.


but i have had this exact prob too and still havnt solved it

new turbo next month, a gt35r, so i dont wanna **** it up, im running a -3 line with a restrictor drilled out to .0625 Inch. I fill my LS oil pan each oil change to 3.5Quarts jus so the oil never gets close to my oil return. I do this because it is very hilly where i live and road have crazy slopes and at stop lights, my car can be like 20degrees straight down and YOU KNOW the oil has to be all OVER the oil drain hole, or one would assume, so i jus play it safe and fill it a little less and keep an eye on it each morning b4 i start the car.

My95SlvrBlt

now, if i go and swap down to a -3an line, and double check my return, is it possible i wont need to rebuild? It has never been oil starved(obviously) but i took an old turbo apart, and theyre not exactly seals, theyre more like piston rings.... Could the smaller line solve the problem, or will i need to rebuild?

reaction360

only way to find out is to try it. luckily i caught my problem before it fucked up my new sc61. i'm still running a larger line, but i've got the oil restrictor in there and it hasnt had any issues since. try the smaller line before u go rebuilding your turbo.

My95SlvrBlt

yeah, i drove it home tonight from where it was stuck, it really wasnt smoking anything near what it was. i got it home, put the new -3an line on, pulled the ic piping to inspect. im gonna change the oil to a 10w30 tomorrow, and replace my cam seal.... ill know tomorrow hopefully.

My95SlvrBlt

well it seems that my problem is solved, aside from the oil that leaked out of the cam seal still bruning off, its not smoking.... woo hoo!