Water problem on Dart B18 block and GSR head
Hello my friends,
I m an owner of a fully build - turbocharged honda.
The block is coming from Dart and the head is a ported fully opened GSR.
The engine is powered from a Greddy T-78 turbo kit and has only 5000 Klm on it.
My problem is that I have somewhere water leakage. For every 100 klms I m losing about 400ml of water and the thing is that is passing it inside the Cylinders. I have checked the engine block and the head twice for leakage test and nothing showed up. Furthermore I have changed flanges 4 times and still I see water passing in the cylinder.
Do someone know what the problem might be? Apart from leakage testing (which I have done it twice) and flanges what else should I check?
Thanks in advance,
Alex
I m an owner of a fully build - turbocharged honda.
The block is coming from Dart and the head is a ported fully opened GSR.
The engine is powered from a Greddy T-78 turbo kit and has only 5000 Klm on it.
My problem is that I have somewhere water leakage. For every 100 klms I m losing about 400ml of water and the thing is that is passing it inside the Cylinders. I have checked the engine block and the head twice for leakage test and nothing showed up. Furthermore I have changed flanges 4 times and still I see water passing in the cylinder.
Do someone know what the problem might be? Apart from leakage testing (which I have done it twice) and flanges what else should I check?
Thanks in advance,
Alex
Kyden, thanks for the quick reply,
I don't believe that there is a problem with the sleeves since we should have noticed it when we took the engine out for the leakage test (twice...). Do you know at what temperature should the leak test for the head be performed? I m thinking that the water was not too hot and the crack (if any) did not showed up. Does it worth it to put a standard GSR head and see if the problem is still there or it should have showed up during the leakage test?
I don't believe that there is a problem with the sleeves since we should have noticed it when we took the engine out for the leakage test (twice...). Do you know at what temperature should the leak test for the head be performed? I m thinking that the water was not too hot and the crack (if any) did not showed up. Does it worth it to put a standard GSR head and see if the problem is still there or it should have showed up during the leakage test?
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As soon as I saw "Cometic" in that setup I knew there was going to be a problem....OP swap out the headgasket for a OEM/Golden Eagle ....
70 ftlbs seems a little loose to me im at 84 ftlbs myself i mean i could be wrong, and preferance probly has alot to do with what people torque at
OEM gasket and 85ftlbs with moly lube and torque them in three stages. if it still pushes coolant you have a sleeve issue
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Read the write-up on "theoldone.com". Larry has almost an identical situation. Did you do the leakdown with the pistons in different positions? If the rings were above the hole, you wouldn't get the same leakage as them being below it.
Yeah get rid of the Cometic crap head gasket, they have a really bad track record of failing. The OEM or a OEM replacement head gasket like FelPro who makes the OEM gasket will handle pretty much all you can throw at it as long as you run ARP head studs. Torque the ARP head bolts to the spec provided by ARP, cant remember what it is off hand but 85lbft sounds right.
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