I got my car about a month and a half ago. It worked great for about 3 weeks and then it just started going down hill. My headlights began to flicker for about a week or so and then next it was my tail lights, now my headlights parking lights and cluster will not light up. I checked all the fuses, I took my combination switch apart and cleaned it, and I got a new combination switch and that didnt help. Then my speedometer started to jump everytime I would use my turn signal and then my stereo would restart itself, and then my speedo would go all the way around when I turned the ignition, and go back to 0, and today when I got out of school my car wouldnt start. Not even a clicking from the relay, it just wont start. I left the keys in the II position and called my mom to tell her and next thing I know all my lights randomly turned on and my car started up fine. So I started driving home and its doing all the "normal" things and about halfway home it just died for a split second. I could feel the pressure on the gas go away and I saw the speedo go down, and then as soon as I saw my SRS light turn on (it has always been on) everything powered back up by itself. So I made it home and the next time I tried to start it, it just wont do anything. I don't know what to do. I also have a sub and amp hooked up if that affects anything. Here's pictures of all the wiring I looked at. When I told my grandpa about my speedometer jumping he told me it was probably a wire cross and I knew a lot of people just hack up the harness when they put in an aftermarket HU instead of getting an actual harness so when I pulled it out of course all the wires are spliced together.. Yay.


http://s1263.photobucket.com/albums/...NickCx/Wiring/

 

I would start by checking your fuse boxes to make sure they are hooked up to the right area...make sure the grounds are all in tact....look at battery voltage...

 

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Electrical problems like this are a pain to diagnose. Without being able to test it there myself, I would guess it has shyte work done on its wiring. Considering it has a wire tuck, it's probably hacked up wiring. Also could be a bad alarm install that is interfering - or a combo of the two.

Your SRS light is on because you don't have a clock spring on your steering wheel. Also means you don't have a horn. That vehicle is in a world of hurt. I hate it when people do junk work.

 

I know about the clock spring. I have a B18b1, I don't want this thread to be closed I'm really trying to solve this problem.. I can tell a lot of the wiring was halfassed but it was working just fine a month ago. We've tested power in the fuse box and about 2 thirds of them arent getting power. The only place we've found that isn't receiving power is the ignition switch. Could that be the cause of all of these things?

 

I can try to get all of the fuse numbers that are out right now if needed. And they aren't blown, they just aren't receiving power. If anyone could lead me to a wiring diagram for the ignition switch and fuse box and under dash wiring, etc. I'd greatly appreciate it

 

If you hunt online, you can find the diagrams you need. Sorry, can't give out links due to forum rules.

 

No problems, thank you.

 

Again, what car do you have?

 

1992 Honda Civic Cx 1.5L... It seems like there is power coming in and out of the ignition switch yet my fuse box is not getting power. There is a fuse that blew the other day that was replaced and was getting power and now its still not blown but it is no longer recieving power. I bought the car around the time that my city was flooding and the city that the car was located in was getting a lot of snow. I just found out a couple days ago that these cars apparently had recalls for having gaps in the fenders and it was causing leaking in the front seat's floorboards. Could this have damaged my fuse panel? I get a lot of rain where I live and I'm trying to troubleshoot this but I think I give up tonight.. I'll head back to it tomorrow. I would love to buy a new ignition switch but if mine's fully functional then I don't want to throw money away. I haven't yet measured the volts coming out of the switch yet and I don't have a meter here to do that with, I'll save that for tomorrow so I'll hopefully be back with more info tomorrow evening.

 

Just checked my ignition switch and i have about 12.6-12.8v coming in and out. Im starting to get really frustrated. Does anyonr think i could have water damage to my fuse panel? How could i test it?

 

I was testing the main relay and now I'm getting a buzzing/humming when I turn the ignition... still no lights or power or spark or anything, just that humming.. do I need a new main relay?

 

You are not going to get anywhere with this shotgun approach to diagnostics. There is a very good chance your wiring took a **** somewhere, probably due to a crap wire tuck. If you want to fix it yourself, BUY THE ELECTRICAL TROUBLESHOOTING MANUAL (ETM), then post back here with your diagnoses. Otherwise, take it to a professional.

Sorry but it sounds like you bought a lemon. There's a way out but you've got miles to go still.

 

Also - what fuse did you replace that was blown? And -- did you replace it with one of the same amp rating?

 

My grandpa's a manager at a car shop and he's even stumped. And my grandpa just replaced the fuse, I'm not sure which one but it was a 15 and we replaced it with a 15, and it hasn't blown but it's no longer receiving power.

 

Just found a long blue probably about 8 gauge wire melted to the floorboard under the passenger side dasg.. Does anyone know what this is for? I can try to upload a picture in a few minutes..

 

Nevermind its wires that have been cut and taped kind of like an extension. One of which is the 12v wire for the ignition. The electrical tape is completely melted together and you can feel the heat coming off it right now. Battery is now ungrounded haha.

EDIT: This is getting stripped and soldered and heat-shrinked tomorrow hopefully..