Okay so I have a 1992 civic si with front and rear disk brakes. I have 1999 Civic si front brakes with stock rear disk brakes car had abs but it was taken out by pervious owner. And I belive I need a 40/40 prop value because I changed the master clyinder and front and rear pads. And the booster was replace too. And I only have low to no braking pressure like if I go 25mph and slower the car had low brake pressure and at hight speed no brake pressure and I'll pull the e-brake up too and nothing! How can I fix this ? I was thinking about offing the chase bays master clyinder booster delete but I don't know what to get since I have upgraded front brakes help me out!!

 

If you pull the e-brake and still have nothing, you need to start by checking and adjusting your e-brake cable, and making sure your rear brakes are engaging.

 

Hey work only at low speeds. No going fast.

 

Bleed the system.

 

what speeds you're operating at don't matter. The car shouldn't be MOVING until you know the brakes work correctly. Quite frankly, I don't care if you have to get to work, pick your girlfriend up for a hot date, or go to your mother's funeral. Find another way to get there. There is absolutely zero reason to blatantly risk the life of yourself, your passengers, and fellow motorists.

Adjust the e-brake, make sure the rear calipers are engaging. It's easy to do. The e-brake adjuster is a 10mm nut on the back of the e-brake handle.

Making sure the rear brakes work is easy. Park the car on flat pavement, chock the front wheels, and put the car in gear. Jack up the rear of the car using the rear tow hook. Spin one wheel with your hands while a friend puts his foot on the brakes. Repeat the same test with a friend pulling the e-brake cable.

If neither method stops the rear wheels, start by checking your e-brake connection at the caliper. Is there any slack in the cable? When you pull the e-brake handle, do you see the cable tightening? If you don't, try adjusting the e-brake handle via the 10mm nut on the back of it, under the center console. It should allow the wheels to spin freely while down, and bring the wheels to a full stop at about half engagement. If you still can't get the e-brake to engage after tightening the cable, your cable may either be the wrong cable for the swap, or it may just be old and stretched. Get a new one.

After you've fixed the e-brake problem, start working on the caliper problem. Start by bleeding the brakes. I'm not going to explain that - there are dozens are easy to follow write-ups available here, in the FAQ sticky.

After you've fixed the e-brake, and if your rear calipers still aren't engaging after bleeding, come back and let us know, and we can work from there.

 

I have bleed them and I have th e-brake working it holds the car from rolling when part on a hill etc.. And all calipers are replaced. I have bleed all 4 calipers and a bleed the master clyinder too. I'm guessing at this point it's my booster or the 40/40prop value I need ?

 

Do you not have the 40/40 proportioning valve installed? What that does it prevent full system pressure to reach rear calipers before the front to prevent rear lock up.. Not having one would not (or should not) give you the issue you're having.

When you pump your brakes with the car off, does the pedal get stiff?

If not, check for leaks.
If then there are no leaks it may as well be the brake booster. But I am not too ssure as to how to diagnose issues within that assembly.

 

No leaks but I was told the seal could leak and it would sound like a squeal/suction but you wouldn't see a visible leak and the break booster I have came with the car and it has junkyard right on it so it from a junkyard and replaced and when I bought the shell all 4 calipers was frozen b/c there was no break fluid I'm the lines clyinder or anywhere it was bone die! I'm thinking about buy the chase bay bmc (booster delete? And chasebays tuck lines but I don't wanna do all that if it's a simple fix or something.. And I replace the master clyinder 2times first I didn't bench bleeds it and then I bench bleed it and the pedal is the same it's kids stiff untill tlyou turn the car on and then losses pressure but pedal still has pressure not as much and you feel it goto the floor....