how did you do it... i've seen some pics of people using -6AN line from the fuel filter to the fuel rail.

what do i need to accomplish this?
what are the advantages?


[Modified by Boosted97Lude, 4:05 PM 10/10/2002]

 

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No advantages really as there are other restrictions in the system but it looks cool as **** I used two red anodized banjo fittings from summit racing. It was intended for a carbed application and the opening in the banjo bolts was too large but I shimmed it with two brass rings at each side that I created from a brass bushing I got from McMaster Carr industrial supply. The bushing OD. was exactly the same as the banjo bolt ID. I just carefully cut some nice little 2mm rings from the bushing and pressed them into the fitting. I had to open up the inner diameter of the rings to 12mm with a drill but that wasn't too hard either. Some new, 12mm aluminum sealing washers from Track Auto and that was that.

I have some pictures I can send you if you're interested.

Mike


[Modified by 92sleepR, 11:13 PM 10/10/2002]

 

i would love to see some pics.....MrMag12@aol.com

 

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im thinking of doing all of my lines in stainless from tank to rail might even go with a race cell, then having a dual feed fuel rail made...

 

ok, sorry to bring this back, but do any of you have a stainless line on the retun line from the FPR??? how did you tie it into the hard fuel line from the factory?

 

use a -4 lines, 1/4", it'll match your fuel line and use double hose clamp...

 

so -4 line is ok for return then?

BTW sorry about your loss...fawking theives

 

yeah, -4 is fine...

 

did u trim back the steel part first and clamp down on the rubber, or just over the rubber, steel, and all?

 

rubber, steel and all.....do it with 2 hose clamp..you can 3 as well..it's hard line, plus there's a lil dimpled on the edge of the line, so it's fine

 

YES!!!!! problem solved... THANK YOU!!

 

well, i just tryed using a -4 line on it, but i couldn't get it, it's just too small... i had a scrap of -6 and it seemed to go on better, but went on a little too easy, but was still snug.... so you think if i get some hose clamps and tighten it down really hard it will work?

 

flamenco, is your sale still going on? i tried pming and e-mail ya...

 

I have -6 from my FPR to the stock return line. I used two clamps like Flamenco-T said. It leaked with just one clamp. I want to change it to -4 though cause the -6 is really loose w/out clamps. It should slide over the hard line with a semi tight fit.

Justin

 

-4 is WAY to tight, i couldn't even get it on the hard line, i was even INSIDE the engine bay trying to get it on, i ended up cutting the **** out of my hand too. maybe my Prelude has a slightly larger hard line??? or maybe not, anywasy, i am using -6 on it, i am going to pull back a littl of the rubber, put one clamp there, and then 2 over steel and all

 

Hmm, I may just look for an american sized barb fitting to come off the FPR and go to the hard line. That is how it is stock anyways. Maybe like a -6 to 1/4" barb fitting on teh FPR, then get some 1/4" fuel hose and clamp it on.

Justin

 

Well, here is a solution to attach the return fuel line from the FPR to the return hard line. With this connection you can use a 1/4" fuel line to get the tight fit around the hard lines.

*FPR*
-6AN to 1/8npt union reducer - part 981662
1/8npt to 1/8npt straight female union - part 991001
1/8npt to 1/4" barb fitting - part 984004
1/4" fuel hose
*stock return line*

I cannot find any other parts that would use less fittings to accomplish that. If someone does then update this thread, hehe That should work though and probably what I'll be doing to replace my -6 line that is clamped onto the stock return hard line...All the part numbers I got from http://www.anplumbing.com btw.

Justin

 

oh, i've got an AEM FPR and the problem there is solved, i got some brass fittings that screw in the FPR

 

good info!