Now i know how you guys are about " H22 weights a ton and it causes understeer" and all that smack . I would like some tech and info , so here are my questions :-

(1) Is the process of tappin , pluggin , teein, and runnin the oil line from the back of the B20 block to the Vtec head the same process as what would be done to the H23/VTEC setup ?

(2) What kind of 1/4 mile time would a stock internal H23/VTEC setup run ?

(3) how is the reliability on the H23vtec ?

(4) what injector size is best suited for each ?

(5) what header to use on the H23 setup ?

 

1) yes same process - watch out for valve relief clearances ...
2) depends on driver
3) same as that of any non vtec block
4) h22a stock from 92-96 preferably (peak/hold) needing resistor box
5) any header for h22a vtec.


Greg

 

You can use an H22a header on an H23VTEC, the head is h22 and the block is the same size.

You need to add the oil squirters to the H23 Block, I'm not sure about the oil line stuff you're talking about, I think the H23/VTEC already covers this.

A stock H23 VTEC would run like maybe 14.6 in a 4th gen prelude. Reliability of the H23 VTEC depends on who builds the engine and how well they do it. Injectors, I wouldn't go higher than 370cc probably...

 

I've heard that on an h23/vtec, that you don't have to run oil lines like on an ls/vtec. All you do is bolt on the head and run wires for vtec.

 

in a swap scenario you would need to run the VTEC, Secondary IAB, and Knock sensor in a civic or something. I don't recall any running of oil lines except the oil squirters, which there is a place for in the H23 block

 

Oh yeah, all that stuff too. So a h23/vtec is more straight forward job than an ls-b20/vtec.

 

If your trying to build a strong Motor...why wouldnt you use H23 Crank, H23 Eagle Rods and a Custom Piston with raised Ring package to keep H22a R\S Ratio.

Then since your using the h22a Block, you dont have any external Oil Lines.

Suprdave

 

As discussed above, you don't need to run custom oil lines for an h23/vtec hybrid.

 

If you put the H23 crank and rods into a H22 block you will have to modify the H22 oil squirters for clearance. I have an H23 block with the squirters, H23 rods shot peened and Arias Pistons stock bore. THe block was sleeved and the engine runs great...don't lose oil either.\

However, previously the motor was built with an H22 block and H23 crank/rods and it SUCKED....blow-by was huge, but I'm attributing that to a bad bore and hone job for the oversize type-s pistons

 

I figure that i would need to run a tee of the back of the H23 block , tap and plug the head and all that other stuff .

Are you guys sure i wouldn't need to to do all that ?

CHEETAH :- i think you may be right

any one here ever didi this swap ?

 

if possible try and find the jdm h23 dohc vtec engine from the 99 accord wagon..that ish would b killer...but damn hard to find..good luck

 

Yeah the H23 and H22 blocks are the same hence the oil lines are already done. The H23 is basically an H22 stroker with a non-vtec head. Same bore just a larger stroke.

That JDM H23 VTEC accord is nothing special...it's only 200ps

 

So the head just bolts on ?

What about coolant tracks ? do the head and block holes line up ?
which gasket would be used ?

 

yes....bolts right on you can use H22 ARP head studs....

Just understand the H23 and H22 blocks are EXACTLY the same...the only thing that makes them different is the crank/rod/bearings and the oil squirters for the H22, but there is a place for them on the H23.

Same head gasket. Make sure you get the rod/stroke/piston right

 

is there another type of line i can run from the block to the head.. these damn steel braids are killing me. and its a bitch to get the earls fittings on.

pace

 

Suprdave , who do you know of (other than custom) that makes H23 slugs with relocated piston pins?

 

That has to be a custom affair because it will also require the known length of the rod to be used, also custom to retain the r/s ratio.

 

I'm talking about a long rod with a relocated piston pin like the one that Larry has on the website for the B18A/b and the B20B/Z. With slightly longer eagles and rollerwaves with relocated piston pins to up the r/s just a little bit, worth a few hundred more RPM's of breathing.