Hey guys I'm exhausted. I pulled my motor to do some maintence on it and clean up my engine bay well here is a list of things I did to the car:

1. Timing belt
2. Stage 2 clutch(resurface flywheel)
3. Rear main seal
4.fan switch( need to replace thermostat went bad so for now switch is jumped)
5. Aem fuel pressure regulator set to stock. Also installed a gauge to measure etc.
6. New dizzy cap and rotor.
7. Cam seal
8. New motor mounts
9. New torque mounts
10. Unorthodox racing pulley kit

So after putting everything new in the motor etc I was ready to drop it in. So I drop it in reconnect everything and start it up first thing that comes up was a cel with a high bouncy idle, test drove the car like that no vtec, still bouncy idle and when I would pull to a stop car rpms will drop to 0 then shut off. Took it back home disconnected the ground and switched around two sensors I was thinking I put in the wrong place, turned the car back on no check engine but still had the bouncy idle but sat lower tried to do adjustments but couldn't get rid of the bounciness.

2nd day working on car. Still has a bouncy idle but doesn't shut off when pulling to the light etc I guess since the idle stays bouncing between 1000 n 1500. Now the cel comes back and the mph gauge goes crazy and bounces everythwere. Now when the cel comes back on it does it while I'm driving down the road, once its on the mph doesn't work if it does it bounces from the speed I'm actually doin to 0 to half etc its all over the place and I also don't have vtec now keep in mind when I don't have the cel on vtec works works flawlessly.

So basically when I'm driving let's say for 10 mins I have no light then on the 11th min cel comes on n mph gauge goes crazy. Car doesn't stall or sound weird other then the idle at rest.

Here is the info on the car its a 00 civic si with a poorman type r swap has a 97 b16 head and jdm gsr block. Harness is still obd2 but I'm running a obd1 ecu which is a p06 converted to vtec n running an si basemap. Now one weird thing I found prior to doing any kinda work was o2 sensor has the wires cut and never has the car given me a code for it and vtec has always engaged. Idk if previous owner bypassed it somehow or something.

Other mods done to car previous to work: by previous owner
1. Short ram
2. Dc sports header
3. Greddy catback

By me:
1. Replaced tps sensor a few months ago with a blox one ( stock was good but clip was broken)

What I have tried to do to fix it:
Cleaned out the throttle body really good with gas
Cleaned map n tps with appropiate elctronic cleaner
Cleaned iacv( about a month n a half ago)

Please any help will be very appreciated thanks

 

How about you tell us what the CEL was? Those things aren't to be ignored.

 

I haven't had the chance to pull the code cause its a obd1 ecu and only one I have avialable to run the car. I have looked up the thread on how to jump the diagnostic connector to see if I can get the code that way.

 

And sorry for the thread title I was in hurry to post this while I'm at work so I can get ideas etc to do after work

 

How many O2 sensors are on it? Which one is cut?

 

Well has aftermarket header so only runs one and that's the one that's cut but I never had an issue with that prior to the work I did.

I also read thru the thread on how to pull the code and my only issue is that my cel dissappears when I turn off the car and turn it back on then it comes on after a lil bit of driving do I have to follow different steps to pull the code or just do it while the car is running and cel on?

 

OMG. You're running NO O2 sensors? Jeez.
Do not turn the car off then. When the CEL comes on pull over to the side of the road and then jump the CEL.

 

O ok I was wondering if that was still safe to do it like that

 

seriously why is it that people can't figure out if it disappears when you turn the car off DONT TURN IT OFF. do the code check. come back with the code. which will be an o2 one at least.

vtec doesn't work when a CEL is on. these are things you should know. usually it'll kick you into limp mode where you can also not go above 3500.

oh man. after reading that stop. take it to a shop pay them whatever it'll cost to fix that frankenstein mess of wires, trick sensors, and CELs.

if you want to TRY to fix this gsr with a b16 head(not a poor mans type R.)
stop driving it period.
uhm crap get the RIGHT ECU or the very least a jumper harness.
fix your O2 sensor so it works do not by pass it. thats how you get your A/F ratio. your ECU has no idea at all how the engine is performing right now even with a narrow band.
try adjusting your IACV(remember to unplug it or not craps gonna happen)
replace your tps(IMO blox anything is junk. they are a S2 rip off). next time use TB cleaner not gas.

that should fix most of your problems. none of its very hard but none of what you did was either and we see how well thats done.

 

Actually the harness is complete nothing cut orther then the o2 sensor if you wasn't reading before I never had a cel appear on the car and your right when there is a cel there will be no vtec but I wasnt thrown into limp mode cause I can run the rpms sll the way thru 7k I have a jumper harness to the ecu. I have try adjusting the iacv and I also cleaned the trottle body with the proper cleaner and gas.

 

i also cant find the jumper connector to pull the code from I'm looking in the right placce according to the thread thats on here

 

Have you got a local parts store like an O'Reilly's/Autozone/Advanced/Napa?

Most/All of them check codes for free. The jumper cable should be by the ECU.





http://marketplace.honda-tech.com/sh...91&postcount=1

 

they can't do anything since I have a jumper harness with a obd1 ecu and I've been looking thru the whole pass side of the car and can't find it damn lol

 

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