I'm building my LS Vtec motor back up, heres a basic layout so far:

81.5mm Wiseco Pistons
Manley Rods
ACL bearings
ARP head/main studs
Golden Eagle LSVtec kit
GSR p72 head
Moroso Oil Pan
Blox intake manifold
Gates timing belt
OEM GSR water pump
GSR oil pump

I started a new thread because the last one I had was basically a "tear down" (<click) thread , and now I'm ready for the rebuild stages and I'd like to have your input along the way.

I just got my block back from the machine shop, I had them bore 81.5mm, hone, hot tank/clean, polish crank, and install bearings, rods, and pistons. Block looks super clean and I've been re-assembling. More pictures on next pages.

Some pics:







I took this picture of the oil pump because I bought it used, but it seems to be pretty in tact and not worn out.


Thanks for looking, and I'll be updating and adding pictures as much as possible.

 

sounds like your hitting a little bit of a dry spot, but as long as its moving freely, i see no problem, all your bearing clearances were good?

 

Well like I said, I had a machine shop put the block together. Every person I've ever talked to said the guy that works there is amazing at what he does, I asked him if he'd check the clearances he said he does that. I mean it's not very loud, I'm probably just being paranoid haha. Still can't quite figure the main studs hitting though. I mean I could torque the screws down on the windage tray and call it a day, but I know it wasn't like that when I took it apart. Im waiting for someone to chime in about the studs hitting. I searched and found nothing about that

 

Ask him if he had the block line honed for use with the ARP main studs, i know that is a requirement when switching from factory bolts. As far as the windage tray goes, im not sure if you have to use a GSR windage tray or not.

 

LOL ..i watched the VID its all good dont panic
the sound you hear is just the piston rings wiping the walls of the bore TOTALLY NORMAL

 

lol didnt even think of that

 

with regard to the studs yes they do and will hit
all you do is simply clearance the tray to fit

reason for this is the studs and nuts sit alot higher than the OEM bolts

 

So far so good

 

Okay good the noise is normal. Thanks lol.

As far as line hone I don't know that he did, I don't think he did? What would happen if it wasn't line honed?

 

it would be out of round where you have your bearings from the different pressure being applied from the studs vs bolts

 

IMO i wouldnt be terribly concerned, seems like your ok thus far

 

I'm sure you can tell I'm very paranoid lmao! My first engine build/swap, don't know if I'm excited or scared haha. Thanks for the input guys, I appreciate it!

 

oh dont worry im paranoid about everything, but they are alot more resilient then they get credit for even with things being slightly off

 

if he is as good a builder as people have said he would have done it knowing whats studs will do to the bottom end..

I did hear one strange noise in the vid
sounded like the owner half panicing and drooling over his new motor

best of luck with this build

 

lol I tried hard not to drool on the engine while rotating it, thanks

 

Did you get the mains align honed? I believe whenever you switch to aftermarket main studs you need to get mains align honed.

 

I'm going to go out and file down the windage tray now and get that to fit, then install the pick up and oil pump. Next week I'll pick up some gaskets and get some more progress done, as far as the oil pump and water pump go, which type of sealer should I use?

 

a very thin bead of high temp red permatex around the edge of the oil pump, and nothing on the water pump, there is a gasket for the water pump, the most you can do is a little dab in the groove just to use it as like a glue to hold it in place while you mount it. I have the oil pump diagram here for applying rtv, let me locate that.

 

 

You sir, are a gentleman and a scholar.

 

nice build

 

Thank you!

So I did a little "modification" to the windage tray and it fits on there just fine. I used some caliper grease I had handy on the top of each stud to mark the locations where I had to trim. The main issue was the center main cap nuts, but I trimmed a little off by each nut. I used a dremel for most of them, but on the middle one I used a large drill bit. I tried using a hole saw but the one I have just broke on me, figures haha. Might not be pretty, but it will get the job done.







Next up is oil pickup and oil pump, but I'm going to replace the seal on the pump and get some of that permatex as mentioned previously by Spawne32. Once that's done I'll get the oil pan on and flip the motor over and start putting the rest together.

 

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...one_Gasket.htm

 

Do I HAVE to use an OEM oilpan gasket? I was just gonna pick up one from autozone and use some red RTV around the gasket

 

Any oil pan gasket is fine. You shouldn't need to use any rtv on it. The biggest thing for proper seal is not over tightening, which is easy to do especially if you're using the torque specs listed. I've NEVER had luck following those specs. Barely grip tight by hand (I use a speed handle instead of a ratchet) and watch closely that the gasket doesn't begin to squeeze out.