Ok so I have been looking into some ferrea valves for my b16 head with S2 pro 1, and keep seeing it stated that you must use all ferrea valvetrain components, is this true? or can the valves (5000 or 6000 series) be used with other parts such as locks and retainers.
I tried searching but couldn't get it worded correctly.

 

I'm using Ferrea valves with OEM ITR springs and Crower Chromoly retainers for 5yrs now.

 

No. Ferrea is one of those great companies where as long as the other companies that you use are of good quality, you should have no issues whatsoever.

 

ok so they just say that? i was planning on wither supertech or bisimoto valve springs and undecided about the retainers etc, most likely to match the valve springs unless any of you guys have any recommendations, its going to be around 11:1 on S2 pro 1 or equivalent, and hopefully spinning to around 9k, or wherever it stops making power.

 

While on the topic, and as not to start a new thread, I just came across a company called blueprint racing, used to be import builders?
Whats the general opinion on their valvetrain parts? seems like some nice parts but ive never herd of the company before

 

I think you just have to use their keepers for the valves.

 

Is that true?

 

That is what my tuner tells me.

 

So you want Ferrea valves, supertech springs, skunk2 pro cams, and possibly even a fourth brand of retainers?

Why would you not use pro series springs and retainers?

And do you really need new valves? (google aftermarket vs oem honda valves or something).

 

Run the ferrea valves and see what happens with your B16.If something breaks or f**ks up go another route.Learn from your mistakes thats what i do.

 

Are you serious? That's terrible advice. You don't have to jump off a building to know you can't fly, and you don't have to blow up an engine to learn what components work together.



rapom, in the above illustration taken from Comp Cams you can see how the valve, valve locks, and retainers fit together. The most fundamental areas of concern as far as compatibility are the OD and groove(s) of the valve matching with the ID and grooves in the locks, the taper in the locks matching the taper in the retainer, and the steps under the retainer fitting the springs.

Different manufacturers use different groove arrangements. There can be as many three grooves and as little as just one, and they could be square or a rounded. Typically shelf parts will be the same as the OEM design for ease of installation and to be compatible with a wider range of other parts, while the more custom race stuff may be more unique.

Then there are several different taper angles used in the lock and retainers, the two most common being 7 degree and 10 degree. Again, usually shelf parts will match what the OEM used for the same reasons already mentioned, but you must make sure they match or you can easily drop a valve.

Next, the retainers must have the steps to accomodate the springs being used. A retainer being used with a dual valvespring should have two steps, one for the inner coil and one for the outer coil. It should be a tight fit as well. Tyoically, the OD of the steps should be close to the ID of the coils so that the valvespring can't move around too much and generate excess friction and heat.

All of this information should be easily accessible with a phone call to the manufactuers of the parts you're wanting to use. Hope this helps.

 

Putting ferrea valves aint gonna blow his engine.

 

omg..

 

Lol, Ferrea are like one of the most respected known valvetrain companies world wide.

 

Are you really that stupid?

After reading your first post, and then this post, I would have to say, yes, yes you are that stupid...

 

To the op I would recommend you use skunk2 springs and retainers with their cams. On another note some aftermarket retainers use different degree valve keepers but 99% will use stock 7 degree keepers.

I am running RM Cams, springs and retainers with ferrea valves.

All manu will recommend you run their full valve train.