Oil starvation (seeping oil pan seal) and relying on the dummy light to flicker was a bad idea, I know. Lesson learned, forging on. Been on blocks for a couple months... Can see the fubar rod when you pull the oil pan. Stealership says I need a whole new engine which is something insane like $8k from them and obvously not going to happen. My inclination is ITR. I wish I could just do the bottom end and be Cali/CARB legal but doesn't sound like it and the entire enchilada is a bit out of my budget.

Sight unseen my trusty repair guy wants to sell me a rebuild for $1100-1500. Sounds like he really doesn't want to do a rebuild and says lots of tests will be needed to make sure there's no hairline cracks, etc. Think he really just wants the less complicated operation of pulling and installing without the rebuilding part. There definitely weren't any loud bangs or puddles when it happened, just a shuddering with my cluster lit up like a Christmas tree...

Does anyone think a rebuild/salvage of my head and/or bare block is feasible? What happens if I just try to replace the rod(s), pistons, crank, etc and there is, say a hairline crack or something like that. What should I look for in the head? Any other suggestions?

 

Ok, in either case, you'll likely have to pull the motor out
So, yank it, get it tested for cracks
If it's good, go from there
If not, ya gotta get a new block/head/both and start from scratch or sell the car

 

Is there a hole in the block?


Yes, relaying on the dummy is a idea only dummys come up with.
Often times when the dummy light actually turns on it's to late.

 

if u spun a rod bearing that crank is scared and fubar. u would have to make sure al the main bearings were not scared as well. u would be better off cleaning that head up and throwing it on a b18ls bottom end and don't rev it out to 8k like the b16. best bang for ur buck. rebuilds don't come with much warranty and u get about as good warranty as if u built the block urself and took ur time with clearances. if u dont think u have the skills for that then buy a used ls motor for 500 and throw it in with ur vtec head.

 

op lives in cali.....they got strict rules on what they can swap in and pass emmisions

first pull the motor....find out what is damaged...is the head good, then all you need is a short block...iff its all shot you need a motor...you dont know what your going to have to buy until you know what broke.....that or buy a full swap...sell off the good left over parts

but i dont understand when you say you threw a rod.....i've thrown rods bfore...it sounds like a shotgun and generally leaves a few windows in your block

go to the f.s. section/ ebay/ local forums and find a b16 bottom end

 

just find a used long block running condition
check the yards and cl you will find one

 

No visible holes. I tend to DIY with the Helms but never done anything as extensive as a full swap before myself and not sure how to know if the head is good or shot other than going page by page.

Thrown rod is the what the dealer mechs put on the paperwork as well as what I always called this. The connecting rod broke free (so at least one bearing destroyed) but no visible holes in the block. Dealer mechanic was telling me he thinks the oil light is way too low and yeah only something like a half quart was in my pan when they pulled it. Obviously I know that now I should have treated it much more seriously and changed that oil pan seal ASAP and kept it topped off all the time instead of just when the light started flickering. If I could undo it, believe me, I'd have rather just payed the stealership's outrageous price even. Just dropping the exhaust and pulling the pan is easy. Now I'm going to spend a bunch of money I'd prefer to have used on other things instead of a rebuild/swap, but I've always said I'll drive this thing until the wheels fall off and even then try to get them back on. :D

Have a buddy with a hoist and willing to give it a shot as well as using machine shop etc to do my own thing. Just more in territory I'm not as familiar with and know there's lots of guys here who are experienced with this sort of thing.

 

hondas are the easiest cars to work on
with the car on a lift i can have the motor and tranny on the ground in less than an hour
i am sure there is plenty of others here who are the same.