hi guys,

my friend has a gt3076 on his d16, and his engine overheats just a bit after a few pulls, he suspects that the way he routed the water lines to the turbo is wrong,

the way he hooked it up is:
bottom of rad to one side of turbo,
rear metal water line(teed from the iacv) to the other side of the turbo...

iz that ok?

thanks

 

sounds like it would work to me but maybe try returning to the water neck on the head and keep the line from the bottom of the rad ive done it like this with no problems in the past.

 

Just ditch the water lines, invest in a turbo timer. I'm surprised that the turbo isn't oil-cooled to begin with.

 

.... its water and oil cooled

 

Obviously... I'm just saying I'm surprised that it isn't just oil cooled.

 

Its different with some of those ball bearing units. They need the water lines..

 

Gotcha

 

See if Mac wants to add or correct me though. I'm no expert on turbochargers what so ever.

 

Yes those turbos are water cooled and oil lubricated as opposed to oil doing everything. It prolongs the life of the bearings. You dont need a turbo timer, just let the car sit a minute if you were beating on it before hand if youre not running the water.

The point of water cooling is for after shut down when oil stops flowing through it. Convection pulls water through the system as it cools.

When I used to have my GT turbo you could hear the water moving for a few minutes after shut down =P. I also noticed alot higher temps normally, but an upgraded radiator solved that problem, even with A/C on the hottest summer days.

 

He can't. Remember, those ball-bearings are steel. It is NOT like some air-cooled unit. He'll tear the bearing system up in a matter of days to weeks, and he'll be out a $1400+ piece of equipment. There's nothing that dissipates heat in a cartridge like water or ethyl-glycol

His routing is fine. I still use the bottom of the radiator from a B&R fitting kit into the freeze plug of the front of the block. The IACV valve is used to cool my wastegate.

Make sure that the system doesn't have a rogue air-bubble in the system, and make sure the overflow bottle is properly filled

He might need to invest in a little water wetter from Redline. That works WONDERs. I've dropped temps over 5 degrees because of it.

You can find it in most automotive stores or online

 

Gotcha. I just figured smaller journal bearing turbo's, 16g's and such, were water cooled, and all larger or BB turbo's were oil cooled. Apparently I was wrong lol.

 

your dumping alot of heat into the cooling system for a honda, you may need to look into investing is some much larger cooling upgrades.

 

67mm dbb garret here (T04ZR)... No water hookups. No problems...

I know COUNTLESS people that don't have them hooked up on GT series turbos, not 1 has ever had an issue.

I do run wetter and distilled water (no coolant), with a Mishimoto half radiator... No issues. ANd agree the wetter REALLY does work. I got closer to 10 degrees of ECT temps

For sustained and constant load, Id agree yes, for highway pulls and raping people... drag passes etc. no need. At all. For all but anyone running them under constant load, meh.


YMMV

 

is it pushing coolant into the overflow?

 

I'm running the same turbo. Using the B&R coolant line set up from the front of the block through the turbo and to the bottom of a Fuidyne radiator on a Civic. I also run an oil cooler. I'm using the Redline Water Wetter as well along with a Spoon fan switch and T-stat. I live in Arizona and seem to do alright.

 

Some say that routing the lines to the bottom of the radiator is putting unneeded heat back into the coolant system, but I say "it looks much cleaner that way, rather than having a fitting/line come from the turbo to the radiator, then back, and all that bullsh*t". The only person I have heard of having a problem is a friend of mine that road races, and under sustained load, the motor was heating up a bit. A little front ducting fixed that though. Just make sure that the radiator has ample air flow, and have some fun with it. YOU MUST RUN THOSE WATER LINES! MUST!

 

Wrong.

 

Pretty sure Garrett has been making turbos for quite some time now. I may be wrong, but those ports for coolant are there for a reason. Until you have a job designing turbos for Garrett, I'd say you should run coolant through the turbos that have the ports.

 

Bam

http://turbobygarrett.com/turbobygar...er_Cooling.pdf

 

Check it out son.. Unless you are loading the **** out of the turbo, CONTINUOUSLY.. The coolant lines really arent a big deal. How many people do YOU know that have had CRHAs fail? ya. Me either...

Not one.


I get the article. I DO believe a diesel app or something running the thing under super high load needs the water hookup, for brief sprints and drag passes? I just dont see it neccessry.

NO ONE I know has ever had an issue. Ever.

YMMV....