Won't go into gear, replaced CMC and no other leaks...
All of the sudden, my car won't go into gear (any gear) from neutral unless i pump the clutch pedal or turn the car off and turn it back on. If i do the latter, then i can't get back into gear the next time i stop.
Everyone says it's a hydraulic issue.
So i replaced the CMC because it looked like the old one had a tiny leak.
Bled the system, still have the same problem--can't get into gear from neutral.
-had someone pump the clutch pedal while i watched the fork and it moves OK.
-No leaks found around the slave cylinder.
-Clutch fluid reservoir never had to be filled regularly or was ever low, so i don't suspect any leaks anywhere else.
Notes:
-Clutch disk was replaced 90,000 miles ago @ 90K, car now has 180K.
-B&M short shifter installed 2 weeks ago.
My thoughts are this:
1. could it be the slave cylinder is bad even though i don't see it leaking?
2. Could it be the clutch disk has failed (had a ACT clutch disc break before and keep me from going into gear)
3. Could a bad install on the short shifter cause this? (although the pumping to get into gear doesn't make sense with this one).
4. Could it be that i need to bleed the system even more?
Everyone says it's a hydraulic issue.
So i replaced the CMC because it looked like the old one had a tiny leak.
Bled the system, still have the same problem--can't get into gear from neutral.
-had someone pump the clutch pedal while i watched the fork and it moves OK.
-No leaks found around the slave cylinder.
-Clutch fluid reservoir never had to be filled regularly or was ever low, so i don't suspect any leaks anywhere else.
Notes:
-Clutch disk was replaced 90,000 miles ago @ 90K, car now has 180K.
-B&M short shifter installed 2 weeks ago.
My thoughts are this:
1. could it be the slave cylinder is bad even though i don't see it leaking?
2. Could it be the clutch disk has failed (had a ACT clutch disc break before and keep me from going into gear)
3. Could a bad install on the short shifter cause this? (although the pumping to get into gear doesn't make sense with this one).
4. Could it be that i need to bleed the system even more?
Last edited by GR_DC2; Jan 23, 2012 at 08:10 PM.
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Clutch could be bad if 90k old, does it go into gear fine with car not running? If so I'd put money on the clutch.
yeah it goes into gear fine when the engine is off.
but if it's the clutch disk, why would pumping the pedal help to get me into gear? everyone i talk to, every forum i've searched, even a trustworthy mechanic says it's a hydraulic issue if i have to pump to get it into gear. i have to agree with them, except i'm running out of hydraulic options!
i'm going to drop in a new slave tomorrow and give it another good bleeding and report back.
but if it's the clutch disk, why would pumping the pedal help to get me into gear? everyone i talk to, every forum i've searched, even a trustworthy mechanic says it's a hydraulic issue if i have to pump to get it into gear. i have to agree with them, except i'm running out of hydraulic options!
i'm going to drop in a new slave tomorrow and give it another good bleeding and report back.
before replacing the slave, try bleeding again.
here's the method. don't mind the english. i cut and pasted from another post:
here what you need to do before the beeding starts. you need a clear tube and a small clear bottle to stick the clear tube in it fill the clear bottle up till you cover the bottom of the tube with brake fluid about an 1 in. or more. the other end of the clear tube goes on the nipple. ok ur almost ready to beed the line.
step 1. find another person to push on the pedal about 5-6 times and hold it there.
step 2. remember that clear tube on the nipple there?? make sure the end is in the bottom of the clear bottle this prevent air getting back into the system when you close the nipple.
step 3. open the nipple and let the fluid and air out. it should bubble out means air is leaving the sys.
step 4. close the nipple do the 2 more times and make sure you check and add fluid in the master cyl.
step 5. when the bubbleing stops and fluid is going out in a steady stream means you system in now air free!! your padel push should be close to factory or better.
here's the method. don't mind the english. i cut and pasted from another post:
here what you need to do before the beeding starts. you need a clear tube and a small clear bottle to stick the clear tube in it fill the clear bottle up till you cover the bottom of the tube with brake fluid about an 1 in. or more. the other end of the clear tube goes on the nipple. ok ur almost ready to beed the line.
step 1. find another person to push on the pedal about 5-6 times and hold it there.
step 2. remember that clear tube on the nipple there?? make sure the end is in the bottom of the clear bottle this prevent air getting back into the system when you close the nipple.
step 3. open the nipple and let the fluid and air out. it should bubble out means air is leaving the sys.
step 4. close the nipple do the 2 more times and make sure you check and add fluid in the master cyl.
step 5. when the bubbleing stops and fluid is going out in a steady stream means you system in now air free!! your padel push should be close to factory or better.
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