jdm head with a1 block and direct port N2O
I have a jdm head with an h22a1 block and cranks from the jdm and the usdm.. I was wandering what where the best internals for a sturdy directport setup without having to sleeve the block.. or should I look for an f22 block.. I figured one of the many brilliant mind on here would know some f/h seris hybrid setup that could benifit me most..
so your motor has two cranks? how does that work exactly? You can run a 50 shot all day on stock internals with no problem. Anything more than that and I really don't know. That is the most i have ever ran. A f22 block does have stronger sleeves and you could run a forged pistion and spray much much more. Just be carefull. I would pull some timing out and add a little extra fuel. If you don't know what your doing with n2o you can really ruin some parts.
I know nitrous.. I just don't know combos of multiple seris parts that would make a good hybrid setup for me.. and I never said my engine had 2 cranks.. I said "I" have 2 cranks.. a jdm and a usdm.. idk if they r different in dimentions or not which is y a brought them up.. for example maybe use a jdm crank with f series rods to get a lil more compression.. and I doubt that is anywhere near correct but that is an example of the type of info I am looking for..
Yeah my first question would be how big a shot do you want to run, and what you plan to use it for.
I ran a 100 shot wet this last summer, drag strip only. I built my engine with oem specs, but on the close end of ring gap, and that ended up being my downfall.
The cranks should be identical, if you are building an engine, have a machine shop check them, and use the better one obviously. If you want to use a different crank, rods etc. I use the compression calculator at zealautomotive for a lot of my info.
I ran a 100 shot wet this last summer, drag strip only. I built my engine with oem specs, but on the close end of ring gap, and that ended up being my downfall.
The cranks should be identical, if you are building an engine, have a machine shop check them, and use the better one obviously. If you want to use a different crank, rods etc. I use the compression calculator at zealautomotive for a lot of my info.
Nitrous would be for drag only.. I was wanting to run 75 or 100, but I would have dual tunes.. one with retarded timing and set for spray and the other for all motor.. I was thinking of going with an f block for those cast walls.. I just was looking for info from the experinced.
If you want to run a 75 shot, I would stick with a wet setup single jet, and just run colder plugs and retard timing 3-5 degrees. If you can, get on a dyno and check the plugs to make sure the jets are good how you want it to run.
For a 100 shot, from what I saw, you really do need to be more careful, but if the engine has some more mileage on it, may help.
My setup was pretty much brand new, and running a 100 shot on 11.6:1 compression H23Vtec. It ran sweet, till I blew a pistons ringlands running hot laps at the drag strip. I am building a very similar engine this year, but bigger ring gap, even more compression, hot cams, valvetrain, and a better header. I will run this one n/a alot longer, especially since my local track closed, but it will see the 100 shot as well, and maybe up it to 120-150.
For a 100 shot, from what I saw, you really do need to be more careful, but if the engine has some more mileage on it, may help.
My setup was pretty much brand new, and running a 100 shot on 11.6:1 compression H23Vtec. It ran sweet, till I blew a pistons ringlands running hot laps at the drag strip. I am building a very similar engine this year, but bigger ring gap, even more compression, hot cams, valvetrain, and a better header. I will run this one n/a alot longer, especially since my local track closed, but it will see the 100 shot as well, and maybe up it to 120-150.
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