bearing choices, more clearance needed
I have a question on measuring the mains on a block I have. So far the bearings I have to use are all pink/red. With the caps torqued to 56 ft. lbs. with the bearing in them, here are my different clearances.
#1 PINK .0015
#2 PINK .0015
#3 RED .0018
#4 RED .0009
#5 RED .0003
My crank measures pretty consistent, with 1,2,4,5 all coming out to 2.1648-9. And #3 measuring to 2.1645......all within spec.
I am using a mic (.0001) on the crank and keep the measurement locked to set up the .0001 dial bore gauge. I am measuring only vertically, as the bearings can tend to open a little more near the tangs/opposite side.
Clearances on #4 and #5 are not good. I have plastigauged #5 and the crush shows the clearance being in between .001 and .0015, which is acceptable. But I do not like that it didn't measure that way with a mic/bore gauge. The crank bore for #5 is 2.3210 while #1 is 2.3225.
I don't know whether to send it for machine work, or find bearings to fit (obviously I couldn't use a honda bearing). The block has been line bored and not assembled since then. My initial problem was that the crank took 20+ ft lbs to even move when torqued down.
Anyone with any experience/advice?
#1 PINK .0015
#2 PINK .0015
#3 RED .0018
#4 RED .0009
#5 RED .0003
My crank measures pretty consistent, with 1,2,4,5 all coming out to 2.1648-9. And #3 measuring to 2.1645......all within spec.
I am using a mic (.0001) on the crank and keep the measurement locked to set up the .0001 dial bore gauge. I am measuring only vertically, as the bearings can tend to open a little more near the tangs/opposite side.
Clearances on #4 and #5 are not good. I have plastigauged #5 and the crush shows the clearance being in between .001 and .0015, which is acceptable. But I do not like that it didn't measure that way with a mic/bore gauge. The crank bore for #5 is 2.3210 while #1 is 2.3225.
I don't know whether to send it for machine work, or find bearings to fit (obviously I couldn't use a honda bearing). The block has been line bored and not assembled since then. My initial problem was that the crank took 20+ ft lbs to even move when torqued down.
Anyone with any experience/advice?
Trying to figure out your math here...
#5
2.3210 - 2.1648 = 0.1562
0.1562 - (2 x .0783) = -.0004
Negative? How sure are you that you're measurements on the crank bore are right?
http://www.laskeyracing.com/shop/bearingthickness.htm - bearing thicknesses I'm using
#5
2.3210 - 2.1648 = 0.1562
0.1562 - (2 x .0783) = -.0004
Negative? How sure are you that you're measurements on the crank bore are right?
http://www.laskeyracing.com/shop/bearingthickness.htm - bearing thicknesses I'm using
Trying to figure out your math here...
#5
2.3210 - 2.1648 = 0.1562
0.1562 - (2 x .0783) = -.0004
Negative? How sure are you that you're measurements on the crank bore are right?
http://www.laskeyracing.com/shop/bearingthickness.htm - bearing thicknesses I'm using
#5
2.3210 - 2.1648 = 0.1562
0.1562 - (2 x .0783) = -.0004
Negative? How sure are you that you're measurements on the crank bore are right?
http://www.laskeyracing.com/shop/bearingthickness.htm - bearing thicknesses I'm using
I am 100% on the crank journal and bore.
For the crank:
On a 2-3" mic the line is past the 1 (.100), past the second tick of the 1(.050), in between the 14-15 (.014x), and the lines match up at the 8 (.0008).
And the bore I used a mitutoyo dial bore gauge in the crank bore and zeroed it out. Then used a mic to measure the distance when at zero. Both the micrometer and the dial gauge have .0001 graduations.
Last edited by 5thgen; Jan 22, 2012 at 08:21 PM.
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