So im planning a new build for road racing and was wandering what pistons you guys use such as casted or forged and what compression. I talked to a bunch of people and the recamended casted but I like to hear what you guys run.

 

You should always check the rule set of the race class and race organization where you are planning to run BEFORE building a car....Good Luck.

 

X3 read your rule book first then you will have your answer.
We all run what our rule book tells us we can run.

 

Probably better to be more specific with your build:
1) Any specific class/series you're looking to race in?
a) If yes, build your engine to the rules and that'll dictate what pistons you're allowed to use

and

2) What type of engines will you be using/allowed to use as per rules? N/A or forced induced? (Again, dependent on what ruleset/series/class you'll be competing in)

 

i use jdm ones 'cause there faster :p

 

Not trying to be a d*ck however if you want an honest (and informed answer) then you are going to need provide a lot more detailed information. Such as, is the is a going to be N/A or boosted? Strictly a track car or dd too? If it is strictly a track car which sanctioning body? Which class? Is this more of a manufacturer question i.e. Wiseco vs Nippon, etc?
The more you give us the better your response will be.

 

A lot of variables here like mentioned.

Im currently running oem p30s putting me right at the compression limit (11.0:1) for my class.

 

Well right now i have a H1 specific B16. but now i just wanna do mean ls/v for time attack. I would Love to run forged but i dont know if that would be the best option for for that. Sorry for the vauge question! the car will only be drivin to the track and on the track and thats it.

 

If you're doing time attack and there is no specific criteria/specs/rules for pistons, I think custom Mahle coated gas ported pistons that yield over 14.0:1 compression with deep and widened valve reliefs (for big cams and .5mm intake oversized valves).

or just race in H1 since you already have an engine for it.

 

That information helps. Is there a specific reason for the piston change or are you simply doing a ring and bearing? The reason I ask is that most forged pistons require different clearances than cast models. If you are going perform a full rebuild (bore, hone, balance, etc) then a piston change isn't that big of a deal because your machine shop would be able to set the clearances to the piston manufacturers specifications. However if you are simply doing a ring and bearing and want to replace the pistons while you're there swapping one for the other would be un-wise.
There is a whole thread on the advantages of one over the other here: https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/forged-pistons-vs-cast-pistons-2721867/ and here: https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/my-k20-rebuild-2427270/
Lots of information and opinions to go through. Please keep up the updates!

 

When I was all motor I used to run Endyn Rollerwave's which are basically just a custom-spec Wiseco piston. I still run Wiseco in my turbo motor as well and have always had good luck with them.

 

admassa beautiful link thank you! i cantacted lary and ENDYNE and they no longer sell rollerwaves to the public they now only come in engines they build. So have been reading on Supertech's forged piston and I think I might go that route because they are made by Mahle.

I have some Pro 1's laying around and a ENDYNE ported head so I might do a 13:1 LS/V. My only worry is with the temps and Extended revs the engine will see. ie... 20 minute heats

 

Glad I could help albeit on the backs of others hard work! Keep us up on what you do and please heed the advice given by vtecjj (2 time Honda-Challenge champ!) & dirty19, build to the class you may want to race in. If you go too crazy and then later on down the road want to try an H1 or H2 race then your motor may end up being illegal.

Good luck!

 

Supertech Pistons. Best bang for the buck for a fully coated Forged piston. Have Eagle rods connected to them as well which are PLENTY for all motor setups.

 

im running CP pistons 9.8 comp in my gsr, 17psi. great so far

 

oem for reliability ..... ctr pistons in itr block

 

cast pistons + extended heat = not reliable. There is a reason for forged pistons and it isn't because they are shiny and more expensive that makes them better.