So I'm having issues with my idling being really inconsistent, it'll rev up to 2,500 then drop to 0 and repeats, that's guessing cause my tach doesn't work but basically rpms rise quick then fall to nothing, also had a issue with it jerking real bad like the injectors were just dumping gas then it would die and not start up unless I let it sit for a minute. MY CEL is throwing TDC and Vtec (Vtec solenoid plug came unpinned and havn't repinned it yet) I just recently had my b18c1 head rebuilt cause I had 6 bent exhaust valves, so I went ahead and replaced all 16 and put in all new supertech black nitrided coated valves in, new full dizzy(cap and rotor) new sparkplugs and wire, new headers, all new gaskets and washers. All the vacuum lines have been sprayed with brake cleaner to check for leaks but found nothing.

Any ideas guys?

 

You might need to change your fuel filter, and check you fuel injectors for the jerking problem, for the idle issue clean your IACV and check your FITV might just need to tighten the white plastic screw on the inside of it, do those and that should fix your idle issue.

 

I tried the throttle adjustment screw and it didn't change anything. seemed kind of odd lol

 

so the rpm's drop to zero without stalling? try jostling the harness near the distributor. see if you can notice any difference in tach/idle activity. if not, try another known good distributor.

 

^^ I'm pretty sure he meant 500 rpm or so, it looks like zero on the cluster because it doesn't have a number.

As for tech, have you fully bled coolant system? Have you tried cleaning the iacv? Have you checked for a bad cat? (That was my problem)

 

Check your mechanical timing and vaccum line routing. It sounds like a vaccum leak or IACV/FITV issue.

 

are u sure u put the belt back on with everything lined up properly, have u set the timing correctly after removing the dizzy, the idle does sound like iac valve take it off and clean it, the jerking could be a flat spot in the tps or way off timing

 

how does it run at WOT?

 

he's throwing a tdc code (sensor located inside distributor). and the tach doesn't work.
and car jerks to a stall and won't restart for a couple minutes.
my first thought would be try and borrow a known good distributor. i dunno. judging by the description, that's where i'd start

 

your vtec being basically unhooked will make your car run like crap... would fix that sooner than later and see what changes.

 

he said dizzy was new, and when i did my swap i wired the vtec backwards and it still ran fine just no vtec, realized after looking at the wiring diagram that i just crossed the wires switched em and all was well. my advice is to make a list and do one thing at a time and make sure that is fixed and then move on, too many problems can cause all kinds of weird things to happen.

 

Edit: i now see it only says cap and rotor, absolutely go to the dizzy first my car did the same thing when mine went. I dismissed it because i read full dizzy replaced sorry my mistake.

 

no no, the way i re-read that was that he actually did replace the entire distributor, but was stating that he also replaced the cap and rotor. if i'm reading his post correctly. guess some clarification may be needed.
even still, if the same issues weren't occurring before he replaced the distributor, i still certainly wouldn't rule it out as a possibility. wouldn't be the first time a bnib distributor turned out to be crap from the factory.
so to the op, is it a new distributor? if so, was the problem occurring before the new distributor was installed?
if not, i'd try and borrow a known good one, even if only to cancel it out

 

Yes the dizzy is new, I was having idle problems before I replaced the dizzy though. I still have a warranty on it and it's on the way. The IACV and throttle have been clean. I added some injector cleaner and the idle isn't as high but still fluctuates. Also the tach hasn't worked since I bought the car. The guy told me it was the cluster but I swapped it and nothing, so I assume theres a break somewhere between the dizzy and the tach lol I know the timing belt is right but don't know about ignition timing. It was throwing codes 7,8,21 if I remember correctly. I'll check again later.

 

get a pin out of your ecu and just run a new tach wire altogether and see if that makes your tach work if so u can just leave the new one or try to trace down the issue. also while the intake tube is off try plugging the hole on the bottom of the inside of the throttle body if your idle levels out then theres a fitv problem. are u sure all is well with the new valves? and you are sure the belt didnt jump one tooth or anything when installing it. thinking more about the jerking now i dont think that symptom would be related to fitv of iac.

 

and were you getting the jerking and irratyic idle before the valves were done?

 

Will do! Any further instructions on running a new tach wire? Never done it before lol Pretty sure timings right cause it's running pretty good other than the jerking and valves should fine, running on all 4 with no problems and no strange noises.

No, the jerking actually stopped after I used some GUMOUT fuel system cleaner or at least hasn't done it yet. Idling is significantly lower RPMS but is still fluctuating randomly.

 

and so, was the idle irratic after the valve replacement? or before as well?

 

Before as well