hello ht i got a starting issues and i could use some help to narrow things down without spending a bunch of money.

so i only have problems starting up my car on the first try of the day (i leave it over night the next day it wont start.)
weird thing is that if i leave the key in to the second position and just let it sit for like 5 mins max, it will eventually start up. then for the rest of the day, there are no issues starting.
there is power, i could turn on the radio, roll my windows down, headlights, all that.
on the first try of the day, all i get is a click. no crank.. just a click.
i do hear the fuel running when i turn the key to crank and hold it there.

at first i thought it was because it was cold outside so thats why it doesn't start, but this afternoon while it was nice and warm, i still couldn't get that first start after a few mins of leaving the key in the second position before trying to crank it.
soo things i've replaced so far is the main relay. and tomorrow i will be replacing spark plugs and wires. along with the valve cover gasket and spark plug seals (which reminds me, i found oil on my spark plugs) << could that be the issue?

i've did a lot of searching, and im guessing it could be battery related or starter. starter is what i'm hoping it isn't but i just dont think it is because it starts up like a champ after that first start. even if get that first start and turn it off after a couple seconds it will start up again no issues. maybe it could be the oil on the plugs and wires. or maybe even the wires connecting to the battery, etc. could someone tell me some symptoms of starting issues related to fuel? i don't think its anything distributor related also because it starts up without any problems after this first time of the day. but after all, it could be something as simple as the battery even though i still have power to everything inside? idk!...

any input would be greatly appreciated. thanks guys!

 

Start by having your battery tested. Usually if a battery is no good, on a cold mornings you will have a difficult time starting your car. If that checks out good then look at your engine and starter grounds. If you have a loose, corroded or broken engine ground you can be tryn to diagnose something thats not broken and can send you on a wild goose chase. If all your grounds are good and secure in their correct locations you only have 1 thing left. Your starter. Denso starters have like the weakest brushes ever. THose go bad more often than you think but you can get a remanufactured starter from napa with lifetime warranty for less than 100 bucks.But FIRST DO THE BATTERY TEST AND CHECK YOUR GROUNDS!!!!!!!!!!!!ESPECIALLY THE CHASSIS GROUND FROM THE NEGATIVE POST TO THE STRUT TOWER AND THE GROUND FROM THE RADIATOR SUPPORT TO THE VALVE COVER!!!THOSE ARE KEY

 

since you are getting a "click" when you try and start, this confirms that the starter circuit is being completed. that cancels out everything but either the starter, B+ cable to starter motor, starter solenoid to starter motor lead, transmission to chassis ground, or battery to chassis ground

those 5 things.
as stated, check and clean the chassis ground to transmission connections, chassis to battery ground, the battery posts and terminals. check the B+ cable to starter motor connection and solenoid to motor lead connection. make sure they aren't loose or falling apart.
once all that is done and checks out good, if the problem persists, do a bypass jump from the solenoid to the motor. if the starter still doesn't engage with the bypass jump, replace the starter

 

so i got the battery checked and turns out its good. i double checked by putting it into my other integras and it fired right up. then i put my other intergra's battery into this one and i got the same result with the no start. but after a minute of leaving the key in the second position, it fired right up.

also today, i replaced the ground wire to the battery, checked all the other grounds and they all seem clean. i cleaned them up with a little sand paper too.
lastly i changed the valve cover and sparkplug gaskets. and boy there was there a lot of oil in 3 of the cylinders. so i flushed out the oil with some brake cleaner and change the spark plugs.
the first start of today already happened so i guess i have to wait till tomorrow and hope for the best.


could it be alternator? i kinda ruled it out because my battery still keeps charge. radio turns on and all that. plus the battery started up my other integra with no issues.

 

no. it cannot be the alternator, nor the spark plugs. they are not part of the starting circuit. follow the instructions given, and you'll get it all sorted out

 

very correct

 

Still no luck :[ I checked all those wires and cleaned them but still not getting that first start of the day. Its weird that I only have this isue on the first start. The rest of the day it'll start up no problem. I just gotta keep turning it untill it eventually starts up. And still just a click no crank

 

Do you own a multimeter?

 

i do actually. im going to try this http://www.team-integra.net/forum/19...than-20-a.html seems like people on there have the same symptoms

 

First thing I would want to know is where is the "click" coming from, the engine bay, [starter solenoid] or under the dash, [starter relay].

Try this... https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...CM+bypass+jump 94

 

From how you describe your first start up of the day and how it doesnt have problems til it sits all night, it sounds like shes having a hard time priming fuel.

 

pump or filter clogged.

 

alright ill try it tomorrow and let you guys know. the click is coming from both inside and outside

 

neither of these are part of the starting circuit.
he says it's a no crank, not no start

 

As soon as the car won't start, stop trying. You want it to not start for testing. Next, do the bypass jump that's in fcm's link and let us know what happens.

 

Good point, didn't see that part.

 

So I did the test fcm posted. And I didn't get a crank. I got a click as usual. Also I noticed that the click in the engine bay happens when I release the key from trying to start. And I get a click inside when I try turn the key. But yeah no crank when I do that test means its the starter right?

 

or the transmission to chassis ground. or the battery+ to starter cable/connections.

 

Ditto that^^^

The bypass jump is just that, it bypasses everything from the ign. switch to the starter solenoid, so if you still do not get engine cranking then the problem is not anything before the solenoid and is most likely the solenoid or the starter motor itself.

However, as mentioned, it can just as easily the engine ground, [transmission to chassis ground] or the batt. to starter motor connection.

The next test is to connect the test light ground to the batt. neg.(-) and touch the probe to the batt. cable post/stud on the starter motor, do not touch the cable terminal or the nut just the end of the post/stud, the test light should light up, now have someone try and start the engine, [turn ign. key to start] does the test light stay on, it should, if not there is a connectoin problem.

If the batt. connection to the starter motor is good, move the test light ground to the pos.(+) post of the batt. touch the probe to the starter motor case, the test light should light up, again have someone try and start the engine, does the test light stay on, it should, if not you have an engine grounding problem.

If the engine ground is good, try the "tap test", have someone hold the ign. key in the start position then "tap" the starter solenoid, give it a good hard smack, if engine cranks, replace the starter motor solenoid if not replace the starter. 94

 

alright ill have to go and get one of those test lights and ill get back to you guys. thanks for all the help!

 

It could also be the clutch switch on top of the pedal. Put a paper clip in the connector to complete the circuit and see if it starts. It's a quick easy test that can be done for free.

 

^^nope. starter bypass test eliminates the rest of the starting circuit. aside from the power feed to the starter motor, ground, and starter

 

I just fail to see how it can be a ground issue if it's intermittent. Usually with electrics either the circuit is complete or not, broken or not.

I did have one problem with the ignition switch in the tubmbler, everything would work except turnover. Turns out I had a high spot on one of the contacts which wouldn't let enough current flow to complete the circuit to start. Had to bypass it with a push start.

 

a poor ground can most definitely be the culprit. especially when dealing with a high current load, like a starter motor. poor grounds are often intermittent problems. that's not say that it is the most likely culprit. the more likely culprit is the starter itself. the test is just there to narrow down the possibilities

 

Almost half of the stuff that comes to our shop with intermittent electrical problems turn out to be bad grounds the other half is made up off bad power connections and everything else.

Take my word for it, poor grounds, [intermittent grounds] are very common, I agree that a poor ground may not be your problem but there is no cost to checking them, [redoing them] if for no other reason then to eliminate it as the problem, it also can't hurt to have good clean, [fresh] grounds]. 94