98 GSR Crank No Start
Have an issue with a 98 DC2. Car cranks but does not start. Tried replacing with a good ecu, distributor, main relay and a no go. When i put the key in the on position the fuel pump does not prime. Any ideas on diagnosing if it is indeed a faulty fuel pump?
When you first turn the key to "II", does the Check Engine light come on for two seconds then go off?
Or does the Check Engine light behave differently from the above question?
Is the fuel pump original, or aftermarket?
Please answer all the questions, not just one of them.
Or does the Check Engine light behave differently from the above question?
Is the fuel pump original, or aftermarket?
Please answer all the questions, not just one of them.
Yes check engine light comes on and back off after a few seconds. I have no idea about the fuel pump I haven't opened it up or changed it as I got the car not too long ago.
How would i just the pump directly to the battery? I'm also getting no spark either. So and this happened at the same time. I didn't drive the car for 3 days then it wouldn't start. All ground wires are good, relay is good, ecu is good.
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From: hard parked at the sandbar
with that being said how sure are you that the fuel pump is not priming? the spark could be the whole issue. does it smell like gas around the engine bay fairly strong??
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From: hard parked at the sandbar
hmmm,, sounds like there could be wiring issue somewhere since you said u changed the ecu and main relay out, this may sound wierd but where was the car parked in the three day u didnt drive it? I have heard to many times of rodents gettin up in the engine bay and chewing on wires.
sounds crazy but maybe check it out
it should deff be throwing codes of some sort though
sounds crazy but maybe check it out
it should deff be throwing codes of some sort though
The first thing you need to do is check the operation of the PGM-FI Main Relay.
The first test is a simple feel/listen test, [easiest to do if you drop the relay] hold the relay in your hand and turn on the ign. switch to run, [not all the way to start] you should feel/hear two (2) "clicks", it may feel/sound like one click as they are very close together, after a few sec. [or less] there will be a third click.
The first click is the injector relay turning on, the second click is the fuel pump turning on, the third click is the fuel pump relay turning off, [after priming]
If you are not feeling the clicks you will need to do some testing, unplug the relay and test for powers, there are three (3) of them...
1- Yellow/white, hot at all times, fuse 44 -15A, [engine bay fuse box].
2- Yellow/green, hot in run and start, fuse 13 - 7.5A, [under dash fuse box].
3- Blue/white, hot when cranking to start only, fuse 31 - 7.5A, [under dash fuse box].
If all the fuses are good, [you have all three powers at the relay plug] test the ground, [black] , if good, use a jumper to connect the yellow/white and the yellow/green, [there are two (2) yellow/greens, one is the fuel pump power lead and the other is the fuel injector power lead, one of them should turn on the fuel pump, if it does... http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelay.html
If all the above is good, test for power at IPG1 and IPG2 at the ECU/ECM, [both must have power] they are the only two yellow/black leads at the ECU/ECM.
The first test is a simple feel/listen test, [easiest to do if you drop the relay] hold the relay in your hand and turn on the ign. switch to run, [not all the way to start] you should feel/hear two (2) "clicks", it may feel/sound like one click as they are very close together, after a few sec. [or less] there will be a third click.
The first click is the injector relay turning on, the second click is the fuel pump turning on, the third click is the fuel pump relay turning off, [after priming]
If you are not feeling the clicks you will need to do some testing, unplug the relay and test for powers, there are three (3) of them...
1- Yellow/white, hot at all times, fuse 44 -15A, [engine bay fuse box].
2- Yellow/green, hot in run and start, fuse 13 - 7.5A, [under dash fuse box].
3- Blue/white, hot when cranking to start only, fuse 31 - 7.5A, [under dash fuse box].
If all the fuses are good, [you have all three powers at the relay plug] test the ground, [black] , if good, use a jumper to connect the yellow/white and the yellow/green, [there are two (2) yellow/greens, one is the fuel pump power lead and the other is the fuel injector power lead, one of them should turn on the fuel pump, if it does... http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelay.html
If all the above is good, test for power at IPG1 and IPG2 at the ECU/ECM, [both must have power] they are the only two yellow/black leads at the ECU/ECM.
I feel the 3 clicks, the first 2 do feel as one but it's a quick double click. How would I check the black groud you mentioned? And for the jumper test this is done at the connector that plugs into the main relay correct?
The ground for the PGM-FI Main Relay must be good or there would be no clicks.94
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