have a 94 Honda Accord CD4 EX in Trinidad and Tobago, currently i have rod knock on my engine in my car so i got a donor engine which i am going to scrap and rebuild from the bottom up so far these are the parts I need for my build

F23 Intake Manifold port matched and plenum ported and polished
Blacktrax IAC Adapter
Short Ram Intake (we get alot of flooding in Trinidad and hydro lock is not nice) with a naca duct feeding to right the k & N air filter to create a ram air scoop
Bisimoto Thermo intake gasket
68MM Throttle Body
450cc dsm injectors
Port & Polished Head
ARP Headstuds
Mishimoto fan switch
Mugen thermostat
Bisimoto 2MM intake and 1MM exhaust oversize valves
Bisimoto stage 2 cam (through research no need for valve springs as rev limit is 7100 shifting at 6800 to 7000)
OEM Honda F20B VTEC 85MM oversize pistons and rings
F22b2 Block deburred and bored .25mm and cross hatched
Crankshaft Oil Holes Chamfered (teardrop)
Ebay header (i know for now, trying to get a mugen jasma header for the odyssey, no offence bisi your headers are out of my range)
2" to 2.5" reducer pipe backwards from collector to 2.5" resonated exhaust to 2.5" inlet 4" outlet N1 Exhaust
ACL Duralite Rod and Main bearings mixed with oem where out of clearance (bearing modded with circular Chamfer)
Rods are out of spec for rod end play so contemplating a set of h beams rods
walbro 255lph fuel with 10 gauge wire powering pump
Accel ignition coil
Nology Hot Wires
Nrg Grounding Kit
Adjustable Fuel Regulator set to 50 psi (suppose to 6 psi overstock at wot to increase throttle response)
E3 Spark plugs or Ngk ZRF6F-11 gapped at .44
Bisimoto or Aem Adjustable time gear
Hondata s300 in p75 ecu
F22b1 Baffle Plate
All gaskets belts and water pump honda oem
Oil pump if in spec ported to increase flow not shimmed
running 95 ron which is comparable to the us 93 octane which i believe is aki
Stage 2 Clutch kit with 9lb Flywheel mated to a p2a5 transmission (not the best but original plan was to go turbo should some increase in mpg lol)
I am looking for around 250whp and 230 wtq with this setup

My concerns:
This seems to be very exciting project to do but with the f20b pistons my piston to deck clearance is -.020 with no deck on block and mill on head reusing the rods my static cr is 12.66:1 if i play it safe and buy new h beam rods which 142mm my static compression jumps to 13.4:1 using oem 3 layer gasket
in the us there are car running that compression but where i live is normally hot and humid the maximum of 96-97 degrees almost everyday and there is always bumper to bumper traffic, what i am trying to avoid is pinging when in traffic when the iat will increase due to the latent heat emitted from other surrounding vehicles. Also I would have to advance my base timing by 0.5 degree, at the piston to deck clearance of -.020 i would like to verify.

From research i know that with high compression engines it needs alot of quench and a reduction of quench area i am not familar with the design of the f22b2 dome does it have a lot of quench area or will the shape of f20b piston naturally force the exhaust gases out of the cylinder smoothly?

And with stage 2 cams how much timing advance would i be able to run without have interference issues and what to look out for when I am claying the engine?

Should i plumb a small high impedance injector controlled by a nos switch on the sri to cool the intake charge or should i do water injection to cool cylinder temps but this should increase cylinder pressure which would create more power but may create crankcase pressure?

Should I vent the crankcase with filter on top type of catch can from the pcv valve and outlet that has a hose connected to intake pipe?

Should I get a wideband to tune the car because my car does not have a lamabda sensor? engine didn't come with one and no thrown codes (noob question)

What are the other areas that I may be overlooking because i am building it myself? because i want to build it right the first time and i drive hard most of the times and i redline it alot plus I want to entering an autocross competition with it called solodex and another called drag and wind and my driving is to heel and toe downshift before the turn so this engine would be seeing high revs alot so i would like to also make it reliable

All information that is shared is greatly appreciated as it would help me alot.

Thanks In Advance,
tntpantysoiler

 

where you gettig the f20b pistons ?

 

Do it it does work plus you will have no vtec to worry about just straight head flow. Mine is still good but the vtec situation is killing me it runs good but no top end extra umph!. Let me know the out come.

 

good luck for a fellow trini

 

I woukd recommend standard sized valves as well as valvetrain upgrade. Just because the cam technically doesnt require springs due to their size, that doesnt mean the stock springs will hold enough seat pressure to shut the valve without it bouncing on the seat a couple times. Its relatively cheap insurance.