So i bought an 89 EF Sedan.

Following Specs:

Engine
-51,000 miles on D16Y7 block with fully rebuild Y8 vtec head.
-ARP head studs
-Y8 metal 3 layer head gasket
-Z6 valve cover
-OBD1 ECU chipped with Chrome and Dyno tuned with 7200rpm redline and 5200rpm vtec activation.
-Vision adjustable cam gear
-Polyurethane solid motor mounts
-DX Transmission. Miles unknown. No grinding. Shifts smooth.
-Good stock clutch.
-2 year old Duralast battery

Intake/Exhaust
-Y8 Intake manifold
-62mm throttle body from a F22
-DC Sport 4-2-1 header /w 2" outlet
-Full length 2" exhaust with chrome tip

Handling
-Wheels: Black Rota Slipstreams 15"x6.5" /w locking lugs a carbon fiber center caps (not pictured)
-Tires: 195/50R/15 (2) Toyo Proxes 4, (1) Kelly Charger, (1) Hankook
-Neuspeed Race 5504R lowering springs
-KYB Shocks
-Adjustable front and rear camber kit
-Neuspeed shock tower sway bar
-93 Integra rear disc brake conversion
-95 Integra emergency brake cables
-4040 Brake proportioning valve


Car also came with Two transmissions for a hybrid tranny build and the following parts.

Extra Parts
-OBD1 TD41 distributor
-Honda rear fog lights
-NIB clear fender marker lights
-Drivers side wing window
-Flowmaster 40 Series muffler
-2 good full size spares.
-10 years of extra parts like windows and window regulator motor, main relays, screws and bolts...
-Newer front mud flaps
-88-91 Si cable tranny and 92-95 Dx hydro tranny. Was going to do a DX 5th gear hybrid Si trans.
-Honda headgasket, intake and exhaust gaskets, front and rear main seals, pretty much enough this and that for a full rebuild if necessary down the road.

I paid a little too much maybe, a little over $2000 for all of it.

Anyways, one main issue that were trying to sort is that occasionally the car will go into limp mode (i assume its a sensor) a CEL will come on but you can kill the car and turn the key back on and the car is fine.

It typically does this on a grade but has not been a major issue, just something i want to have looked at.

ECU and car was tuned at Rich Tuned Motorsports in Auburn. Timing advanced a little, also have a 500-900 rpm idle fluctuation that needs to be solved.

Any thoughts?

 

might try cleaning the idle control valve to fix the idle problem

 

Yea i kinda figured as much, previous owner things it might just be a small thing not really a big deal I'm sure there is an extra part somewhere - LOTS of extra's haha.

Here is a terrible photo, she needs a wash/wax and eventually paint job but I love her already...



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That's sounds like a hell of a deal man. What code is it throwing before you turn it off?

 

Dont need a new one just pull the old IACV off spray some carb cleaner in it let it air dry then boom, put back on and your golden. And depending on where you live at i might be able to hook you up with a clean affordable paint job when the time comes.

 

The Y8 throttle body is different and doesn't have anything to regulate the idle when the engine is cold.
Missing FITV.
You should expect an idle issue at cold start, but not so much when warmed up.

Retrieve your ECU codes and lets see what sensor was making your CEL go on.

 

You didn't over pay at all but I would put some Pistons and rods in there and boost it after you get your issues sorted out

 

Thanks for the comments guys, i need to get the car to throw a CEL and dirve it up to AZ or somewhere since I do not have an obd1 code reader. I have a scantool obd2 but no obd1 adapters nor do i think this one is capable of obd1.

I will go drive the car pretty hard tomorrow and see if i can get her to do it again..seems to do it when i'm in vtec and get pegged at 7200.


Also... wtb wire tuck.. lol



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Small update.

CPS.

Just gonna throw a new distributor on there and see if that fixes it.

OBD2 Motor - OBD1 ECU - CPS Sensor = limp mode on hard pulls but only once or twice while driving it ALL day?


Thoughts?

 

You don't need a scan tool to retrieve codes on OBD1.
Find the SCS connector and put a paperclip in it.
Then turn the key to ON.

A motor can not be OBD2.
The electronics on the motor are OBD.
Anyway... OBD2 sensors are compatible with e OBD1 ECU.

 

In original post it says he has a f22 throttle body. Do they have FITV's?

 

Yea, I got the information I needed.

Its a CKP/CPS Crankshaft position sensor.. but its OBD1 so that should not even be an issue...so kinda confused, like said gonna try a different distributor that the previous owner had yet to stick on the car. It is not a major issue but something i would like to get resolved as its still random enough to be quite annoying.

 

Well, the car was mine, and I miss her so much! I'll try to help get enough info out there to diagnose the code. The dizzy is off of a D15B7. TD 41U. OBD1 dizzy. If I remember right we use that one since the straight Y8 is OBD2, Y7 is non VTEC, and the Z6 dizzy doesn't match up.

I read that poor gauge or connections of the extra wires added through the boomslang conversion harness I used could result in the code, and that crossing the wires could result in a fried dizzy. So I put 3 dizzys on it (from the junkyard) and tried different wire combos with one of them, still got code. I pulled a complete ecu to dizzy harness from the junkyard so there would be no soldering anywhere, still threw code. Tuner said ECU is still good. He tuned if after all my dizzy/wiring experimenting and it threw the code on him once mid tune, but after a restart was fine. I talked to him about it and he didn't have a clue what could be causing it after I told him all I'd done to try to fix it. Maybe it just needs a brand new one...but at 160 a pop just to find out that's not going to fix the problem, that could be put towards labor at a Honda specific shop or something.

While driving normally if the car is shut off, highway speeds or whatever, it will restart just fine and drive on. If the code is thrown, simply shutting the car off and turning it back on will reset whatever it is and the code will clear itself. So if while driving and the code is thrown I assumed I could just shut it off and turn it back on and the problem would be fixed. It doesn't work. If I was lucky enough to get it to start back up without coming to a stop it would bog down and act flooded then slowly chug back to function properly in limp mode. The OBD2 CPS is still in the motor, the wires are tucked in under the back of the intake in the harness, with the plug still on, doubt that'd be causing it, since the sensor isn't hooked to anything and the OBD1 computer isn't looking for it...

Been stumped on this problem for almost a year myself. Just learned to drive with it. I could feel it coming on, like a cutting out in the motor, and would back off the throttle and it'd be fine. Once the grade was cleared I could merge onto the next highway and redline or stomp on it and it'd never throw the code. Only when under load going up a grade would it throw it. Some gradual long grades at highway speeds would cause it to want to throw the code too. I had a nephew borrow it and drive the same grade I'm talking about 4 times over 2 days and it never threw it for him. Sorry to be long winded, but I want to provide as much info to help get it solved as possible. Ask any questions and I'll chime in if needed.

 

Should have used the Y8 distributor.
Vtec distributors are internally different from the non-vtec.
Connectors are different, but It is compatible with the OBD1 ECU.

http://www.d-series.org/forums/gener...th-busted.html

Knowing that is a problem, that's where I would start.

 

Thanks for the link!! FYI Husky42, Budget Auto Wrecking in Kent sells the dizzy for $50 with a 3 day warranty. If you wanted to try one out before buying a brand new one. I've always had extra dizzys on hand, those coils love to go out.

 

Yea I called Kaizen Speed mainly because I'm familiar with that shop only and that is what I was told. So will go and pull one and see what happens

Ranscat3 - Man no worries, the purchase has been an absolutely dream man, I love the car and she's wonderful beyond the small issues which I'll get sorted.

Honestly wish buying a car from somebody was as comprehensive as this at all times, id buy another car from you in a heart beat.

Thanks for all the additional info as well. Hell I've had the car for several days now, driven it hard and only had the cel pop twice so no biggie.