can i just take my old rod bolts out and install arp rod bolts one by one without messing up a bearing anyone tryd that im sure some one has

 

one thread will do

 

Step away from the rod bolts!!!
You have to take them to a machine shop and have them PRESSED in/out of the rod. You cannot simply just take them out and put them in. You will also need to have the rods checked for roundness/re-rounded after they are PRESSED in by the machine shop.

 

I don't know what this is all about. I've installed ARP rod bolts on a B18 that was still in an Integra. The only thing I see wrong here is that they are supposed to be torqued using the rod bolt stretch method instead of a torque wrench. I've installed them both ways and never had problems. I beat the hell out of my B18 at 7k-8k all day long.

You can't do it one at a time though. You have to do both rod bolts at once for each rod. Torque both to the first torque spec and then both to the second. Make sure you don't get any trash or dirt in anything or you'll muck it up.

 

Dont take any chances take em to the machine shop... you can install the rod bolts yourself but they NEED to be resized or your taking a big chance.....

 

I think it cost me a whoppin $50 to have mine installed. Better to have it done professionally and resized correctly than to have your buddies cousin's brother Darrel take a wack at it with a hammer.

 

Lmao. It can be done, but it is not recommended.

 

Who's Darrel? lulz

 

Big ends need to be resized

 

Can you elaborate on this? I've never heard that before. I know the rod bolts should be torqued via the stretch method but why do the big ends need to be resized?

 

the bore gets distorted because of the different clamping force.

 

This, there basically no longer a true circle. It even tells you this on the instruction leaflet. There not by all means "plug and play"

 

I stand corrected. I'll get this done on my next build. I appreciate it.

 

bringing this thread back up from the grave due to two reasons.

1. I was looking for rod bolts for a friend and came across this just to make sure I still had the correct info rattling around in my hat rack.


2. all this fuss about the rod being out of round while doing it outside of a machine shop is bs.

this is how i did it on my motor:

loosen one bolt at a time, then with the same socket, take a 6 inch extension or so, and leave the nut on the bolt with enough threads for the nut to sit on the bolt, take a hammer and tap the bolt back out until its loose enough to push it out with a small screw driver. but be careful to not jar anything loose. install the new bolt with the head of it cocked to the left. i say turn the bolt to the left because when you go to tighten it down, the bolt will turn to the right and thus sit flush once seated/torqued properly.



do that to each bolt one by one, and torque properly. i guarantee you will not have an issue whatsoever. i did this on my turbo lsvtec and have not had an issue to this day.

 

^^^Nobody listen to this post. I have seen first hand that using the proper torquing method cauaes the big ends to warp. If you listen to this guy, you have a high risk of destroying your bottom end

 

x2. Had this happen to me first hand. Swapped a rod (known to be good) for one I spun a bearing on in my LSV turbo years back. Was in a hurry/pinch so I swapped rod bolts on my own. 2nd hit of the day the rod started knocking. Took it apart and it was egg shaped (confirmed by the machine shop). I checked clearances as well and they were "ok"

Guy above must be either really lucky, or baby jesus. Or have some LOOOOOOSE clearances that somehow work.

Don't be cheap. Do it right. No only do they check for round, they check for any abnormal wear patterns/fatigue on the rod most people may not notice. I'd never let a $100 machine bill put my motor's life in it's hands..

 

apparently you installed or viewed an installation that was not done correctly.

still rocking my setup with ZERO issues what so ever. so put that in your pipe and smoke it.

 

Nope wasnt installed wrong. Was an emgine being freshly built. Big ends were checked for roundness using the stock bolts at stock torque, then the bolts were swapped and torqued to arp specs and were out of round, requiring the shop to resize them slightly.

By the way, have you ever seen what arp main studs do to your main caps? Tweaks the hell out of them. Thats ehy you have to do a line bore/hone afterwards

 

Moral of the story? When in doubt, have the machine shop check them out.

Just because it was done wrong and worked doesn't make it right. This falls in the same category as hookers. Just because the first one didn't burn you doesn't mean the others can't...

Seriously unless you're in a huge pinch there is no reason not to drop them off for a day or two and have it done correctly for $10/rod. cheap reassurance IMO. Most shops in my area can do this in 1-2 business days without even batting an eye. If $40 for proper work on a motor is "too much" find a new hobby.

 

i always install them in my garage. i use my vice and a socket to allow the stud to press all the way in. then its tq/loosen 3 times as per the instructions. then off to the machine shop to have them honed round again. theoretically you could do it all yourself, just need a dial bore gauge and an appropriate size and grit flexhone.

 

hum... "maybe" if it was just M8 bolts from ls b16 d series rod bolts which only need 28lbs tq (iirc) since not much more over oem, but for sure you don't want to try this with GSR M9 bolts as they are 50lbs tq...much larger difference over oem rod bolt tq spec.


I've always had arp bolts pressed in/out & big end reconditioned.... so i'd rather not try the cheaper route. that's just me.


GL

 

ill update when the rods mess up due to my way of doing it

 

This is almost exactly how I did it on my stock B20Z; haven't had any issues. Now you guys are making me wonder if I should check everything...

 

Just sayin, you fellas are WAY luckier than myself. If it can go wrong, I swear it will go wrong in my case. I like added insurance and peace of mind.

 

lol i was thinking that yesterday. i get outside to snowblow the 15" in my driveway and the auger locks up and smokes the belt within the first 30 seconds.


charlie you are right about those gsr arp studs. thats a fair amount of tq even more than the 43 i think that the arp bolts that come with the eagle rods use.

the oem ls rod nut is 23 and i think the arp is 26 ftlbs. its still machine shop material to at least have them ensured that the big end is round. you guys just slapping them together must be young still. im certainly old enough now that im too lazy to deal with **** going wrong when i just want to get where im going