90 crx with d16z6 had car running and for the hell of it i unpluged the tps and there was no change in idle, am i wrong or should there be a change of some sort?

 

Lol, just plug the TPS back in. Then, clear the codes by pulling the 10 amp Hazard fuse from the engine bay fuse box for 10 seconds. Reinstall the fuse and see how the car runs. Why were you dickin' around with it in the first place? Are you having idle issues?

 

A tps would be a very rare case of an idle issue. Did you try accelerating while it was unplugged?

 

im not having a tps issue, what im really having is a starting issue, where i have to hold the gas pedal down to get it to start, but then it runs for a couple of seconds and then i have to do it all over again after about 7 or 8 minutes it will finaly start and run, and after it finally starts it runs fine and will start fine for the rest of the day. my cel stays on all the time only because of the jackass i got the car from when he put the motor in he decided that he didnt need to use all of the plugs on the harness so now there is no plug for the intake air temp sensor, also there is a broken pin on the ecu harness, which also does not have the two wires to make it possible to read the cel codes. in the summer the car starts fine, it only does it when the temps get below 40 degrees. i
guess my original question should have been does the tps have anything to do with starting the car?

 

Sounds like a Main Fuel Relay. It's located near the kick panel. One that is faulty will allow the car to crank, and occasionally start but will die straight away. Eventually it will start though. The problem gets worse when it's hot out.

 

actually the car starts fine when its hot out

 

If you want this car to run properly, you will have to address all things the previous owner jacked up. IAT sensor needs to be wired up along with anything else that's throwing codes. What are all the codes? Your cold start problem sounds like the po may have blocked off the FITV.

 

car runs fine just starts like crap, also feul relay is newer

 

As long as the CEL is constantly on, with codes present in the ECU's on board diagnostics, it's not running fine. You just think it is. If you want it to run at its full potential and get you the best mpg possible, then all codes must be addressed.

 

so basicaly i should start with a new ecu harness to check the codes and then go from there?

 

Remove the negative battery terminal and your codes will be clear.

If you want to check what codes have been thrown, lift the passengers side carpet and count the LED blinks on the ECU. Search "reading codes", or check the FAQ on how to interpret the lights.

 

if you read my original post i have an obd1 motor and ecu

 

No, a harness is not needed. If you're running an OBD0 to OBD1 conversion harness at the ECU, check codes by grounding the wire from D4. You'll do this while the key is turned to the on position, then the CEL will flash the codes. Here's a link with pics for the ECU pinouts:

http://technet.ff-squad.com/wiring.obd1.htm

 

ok so i found out what codes my ecu is throwing and they are: 20 ELD, 10 IAT, and 6 ECT

 

i tested the circuit for the ect and im getting voltage from both sides of the plug, which i believe there shouldnt be, right?

 

oh and just so you know it also idles around 1500 rpms when its warmed up