im gonna provide you with much info as i can.
i have a 90 crx si with a 95 integra LS b18b1 motor
i converted to obd1(p75 ecu, stock 95 teg fuel injectors, 95 teg distributor, resistor box deleted.. soldered all 4 red/blk wires to the ylw/blk wire)
have a rywire OBD0-OBD1 jumper harness, distributor jumper harness, AEM fuel rail. i opened the ecu up to inspect everything and it looks clean, but i noticed it doesnt have the red LED to see it working. how do i test to see if it even works?
im using a 91 crx si engine harness, i havent connect all the sensors, as im trying to find out what mods i have to do to the harness for it to plug and play
THE PROBLEM ive been trying to get the car to start. im getting no fuel. even when i press the gas when i try to crank it, fuel rail bone dry. not even getting fuel to the filter. when i turn the key to ACC (2) i hear no fuel pump priming nor the main relay click. when i plug in my OBD1 p75 ecu the CEL stays on but the light is very dim. i plugged in my old pm6 ecu and the red light in the ecu stays on and the CEL light gets a little brighter. ive tested the Main relay and its working(tested with the 12v battery..it clicks.(even bought a new one, still doing the same thing) ive circuit tested the sending unit and im only getting 6v.. not sure if i need 12v or not. this is my first time swap, i bought the car from a friend, with the engine, was just never completed.


i know i could search for all of this info individually, but i use that site more than i actually work on my car. i just need some straight up good info so i can get this crx on the road... soooner its on the road, sooner i have transportation to drive to school.. please and thanks in advance

 

Is your ECU grounded on the thermostat housing? Have you tried testing your fuel pump?

 

http://www.rywire.com/catalog/obd0-m...kage-p-69.html

The 2 wires that are loose, are Blue and Orange.
These are for checking your engine codes.

 

The jumper harness I got didn't come with the blue and orange wire....

 

http://technet.ff-squad.com/wiring.obd1.htm

SCS: Service Check Signal is at connector D.

Turn ignition to on position with the SCS wire grounded and your CEL will flash codes.

 

so just put a wire in that pin and ground it to the chassis?

 

is there a way to test the fuel pump without dropping the tank? what would happen if i hook the fuel pump directly to the battery? is it supposed to get 12v?im only getting 6v.

 

There's a harness under the back seat you can test.

 

if your talking about the harness that has that aluminum cover guarding it, i tested that already. there are 4 wires. 2 grounds, a solid yellow, and yellow with black stripe. solid yellow im getting 6v, black and yellow im getting no voltage..

 

how would checking the voltage on the fuel sending unit varify if the pump is ok?

 

If your asking me, that's what I was wondering. 90civic-ZC told me to check for voltage at the harness, under the back seat. I have a US CRX, so I'm assuming hes talking about where the back seats would go . But I'm getting 6v at the sending unit, not sure if I'm supposed to be getting 12v..

 

so i fixed up my wiring harness. got the thermostat grounded. at first i still wasnt getting fuel. but then i wiggled some of the plugs and fuel started shooting out the rail. i tighten up the bolts, i got the car to start but when i press the gas it just shut off. i was told it was my TPS. i had the TPS and map sensor mixed up, i switched them over... BUT now i have a whole other problem. when i try to crank the car, it will crank but slowly dies down like its loosing power. i have my new battery (odyssey PC680 half size). im thinking the starter isnt getting enough power to crank the car now. another thing its 20 degrees outside. My CEL stays on, i havent got around to testing it. but i will this weekend (its actually gonna be in the mid 40s!)

 

At least you have some progress man, GL with it, I'm planning to do a swap on a B18B1 on my EF soon

 

its getting there, and its a headache. but what project isnt?...
once its drivable, im gonna DD it for a few months until i can buy another DD and this chassis is going to be stripped and restored. (probably sometime in the summer when its not F'n 20 degrees)...

oh how i hate New York winters

 

If you did in fact ground the SCS wire to the chassis permanently, then that might explain the CEL staying on.

I believe it's only supposed to be grounded when checking for codes.

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

You are correct.
Additionally, if you keep it grounded the electronic ignition advance will be defeated permanently.
You all also stay in open loop mode.
Pretty much a not good at all idea to keep the SCS wire grounded.

 

maybe ill do it tonight with a video. im curious to see why my car isnt going yet

 

so i checked my engine code. and for about 5 minutes straight the only number it was flashing is 6 (ECT Sensor).. what should i do?

 

so i worked out code 6. put new rad back on with coolant. she has resurrected!!! it held an idle for good few minutes, then i just shut it off. i tested to see if it was throwing anymore codes and of course it is. ill put a video up in a few.

 

Code 0 and 11 Electronic Control Module (ECM)
Code1 Heated oxygen sensor A
Code 2 Oxygen content B
Code 3 and 5 Manifold Absolute Pressure
Code 4 Crank position sensor
Code 6 Engine coolant temperature
Code 7 Throttle position sensor
Code 8 Top dead center sensor
Code 9 No.1 cylinder position sensor
Code 10 Intake air temperature sensor
Code 12 Exhaust recirculation system
Code 13 Barometric pressure sensor
Code 14 Idle air control valve or bad ECM
Code 15 Ignition output signal
Code 16 Fuel Injector
Code 17 Vehicle speed sensor
Code 19 A/T lock-up control solenoid
Code 20 Electric load detector
Code 21 V-TEC control solenoid
Code 22 V-TEC pressure solenoid
Code 23 Knock sensor
Code 30 A/T FI signal A
Code 30 A/T FI signal B
Code 41 Heated oxygen sensor heater (this is throwing cause my o2 sensor was cut)
Code 43 Fuel supply system
Code 45 Fuel supply metering
Code 48 Heated oxygen sensor
Code 61 Front heated oxygen sensor
Code 63 Rear heated oxygen sensor
Code 65 Rear heated oxygen sensor heater
Code 67 Catalytic converter system
Code 70 Automatic transaxle
Code 71 Misfire detected cylinder 1
Code 72 Misfire detected cylinder 2
Code 73 Misfire detected cylinder 3
Code 74 Misfire detected cylinder 4
Code 75 Misfire detected cylinder 5
Code 76 Misfire detected cylinder 6
Code 80 Exhaust recirculation system
Code 86 Coolant temperature
Code 92 Evaporative emission control system
this is found at.. http://check-engine-light-codes.blog...retrieval.html


http://youtu.be/WSgt14VIQ18
but if im correct its throwing code 14 and 41?

 

i started it then shut it off, then checked for codes again cause i just wanted to test to fix all the codes, and i kept it grounded on accident and tried to start the car then it wouldnt start.. could this be why it wont start up anymore?
then i wanted to see if i reset the CEL, if would read anything different. and when i test it now its a solid CEL...

 

please dont tell me i fried my ecu...............

 

Solid CEL can be a fried ECU, but not from leaving the SCS wired.

It's super common for the ECU to do solid CEL when it doesn't have proper ground or loose wires.
Check your grounds on the thermostat housing.

 

correct me if im wrong. to reset the cel codes you unplug the ground terminal on the battery and leave it off for like 10 seconds? if so, i did that to see if i had anymore codes, but now its just the solid CEL

 

right before it was doing the solid ecu, it was running but with a ruff idle which is my IACV. but it still ran