1996 accord coil wiring i need help!!!
hello i have a 1996 accord f22b2 2.2l non vtech and i notice my coil only sparks a couple of times but not continuesly like it should. i replaced it with a new one and it did the same. can anyone tell me what the 4 pin connecter (3 opperational) is connected to? the wires are: blk/yellow - green - yellow. please if anyone has any answers id really appreciate it. my local honda dealer techs really seem like they have no idea. thanks.
BLK/YEL = Coil 12v power source (Comes from the ignition switch (+12v with ignition on) to the Under dash fuse relay box and onto the coil)
YEL = Ignition Control Module (+12v ICM power source / switches to BLK/YEL entering distributor)
GRN = Ignition Control Module (primary output control / coil Ground - pulses)
YEL = Ignition Control Module (+12v ICM power source / switches to BLK/YEL entering distributor)
GRN = Ignition Control Module (primary output control / coil Ground - pulses)
Last edited by GhostAccord; Dec 28, 2011 at 08:35 PM.
great thank you for that info. so here is my problem and its sort of complicating but im hoping you can help. Ive checked my main relay and replaced it, it is working just fine. My fuel pump is putting out enough fuel pressure, but I still have no continuous spark. Some days my car will stay on and idle for 5 minutes and Ill go to drive it but it will turn off after the 1st block. Ive replaced my ignition coil, icm, plugs, wires, and still no consistant spark.Ive noticed the coil will send a spark to the distributor cap one time as I crank the motor. If I turn the key back then forward, it will spark again but not consistantly. I noticed I am getting power from the ignition switch to the coil and I am getting power in the icm, but still no continuous spark. Then, I did this little test and turned the key forward and I jumped a ground wire to the green/yellow wire on my ignition module and noticed the coil sparks continuously. Now im stumped because I dont know what controls that green/yellow wire to my icm and I think that is the cause of the problem. Can you or anyone please help????
The YEL/GRN wire..... is the ignition (ICM) signal from the ECU. If there is something wrong with that wire it will cause some misfire issues for sure.
YEL/GRN = ECU Pin A20 - ICM signal. This signal is received by the ICM and is then processed and used to trigger the coil/spark via the GRN wire of the ICM.
YEL/GRN = ECU Pin A20 - ICM signal. This signal is received by the ICM and is then processed and used to trigger the coil/spark via the GRN wire of the ICM.
ok thank you so much for all your help. ok so the green/yellow wire that comes from the ecu, what does the ecu read to send the signal to the icm so it could ignite the coil? does a simple continuity test verify the ecm wire to icm are connected correctly. i was told the crank position sensor whould have an effect on fireing order but the ecu DTC are clear there are no DTC's also i tested the crank position sensor with an ohm tester and it had 2.05kohms....i tested a brand new one and it tested 2.15khoms also so im ruling out the CPS. so if i could figure out why the coil isnt getting spark from the icm my problems would be solved.
Test/replace the ICM. If there are no codes for the CKP, TDC or CYP sensors then the ECU should be sending out the proper ignition signals. If the ICM has cone bad it will not throw a DTC.
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It could be the ECU but do you have an anti-theft device that's giving you trouble? Bad ground wire somewhere? Is the battery nice and strong? Weak battery voltage can turn the starter but cause other computer related problems.
update: ok so after a little bit of time off and with the avalibility of the proper manuel for my car i took the steps to test the ECU and it was a simple fix....the main ground wire to the ECU was very loose. i couldnt belive it when i found the problem. never under estimate the power of a ground wire....Haha...but it runs great now!!... Thanks for all your help!
Hello. I need to resurrect this old thread to find out which ground you tightened. I'm having the same problem after a swap to manual trans and to vtec. I've already checked the grounds on the driver side of intake manifold and valve cover to motor/engine mount.
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