So I have a 95 integra it was running ok but after a drive I opened my hood and notice that my ground to my starter was lose. So I tighten it but doing that it sparked and now that I tried to start it it does nothing at all. I have power and I checked the starter signal fuse under the dash but it was good. Is there another place I should look for a fuse?? I looked under the hood but non of them have anything to do with the starter that I can see online. Cause my cover does not have anything on it thanks to the owner before me . Anywas can someone help me please

 

id double check your grounds. what happens on the dash when you turn key to ON?

 

everything is good on dash power and everything

 

just when I turn the key there is nothing at all

 

hmmmm. i did the same as you! very noob moment. forgot to take the neg cable off and sparked.. theres a thread on here describing diognose to fix..

sory i dont have it handy but i think it's no cel car wont start,

and yeah it stufed up my gearbox ground bkoz i had it connected under my battery tray (had no gearbox jus barrel housing at the time)

um so every light come's on as usual on dash?

when i did it my cel and abs light wouldnt come on, then when i turned key my abs came on.. thats ecu problem

if everything comes on might have jus shorted a fuse.
do you have a spare ecu handy? try a new one and c wat happens

 

So i just checked the fuses and they are good im thinking that the starter is fried

 

You probably shorted it out.

 

If it sparked then that means that it's not connected to something that's grounded?

 

First, there is no "ground" to the starter, the starter is grounded through it's case.

The starter has two (2) leads going to it, the heavy gauge one is the batt. cable and the smaller gauge plug in one is the exciter/trigger/starter lead.

Neither one is fused, [directly] the batt. cable is not fused at all. [batt. direct] the starter lead is covered by the ign. main fuse.

Before you pull the starter out, try a "bypass jump" and starter circuit test, all you need is a 12V test light...
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...ypass+jump+fcm

The starter ground referred to in the above linked DIY is the batt. to chassis/chassis to engine ground, [main ground cable].

A bypass jump can also be done by jumping from the batt. cable stud on the stater motor to the starter wire terminal, [you do not have to jump all the way from the batt. pos.(+) post].

MAKE SURE THE CAR IS NOT IN GEAR. 94

 

So I just took the starter in to test it and its good. So now what????

 

And I just put it back in and the samething nothing at all.

 

Do you have a voltmeter or test light (lights when it touches 12V?)

Need to identify the nature of the electrical problem...

there is path "A":

BATT (+) -> STARTER -> TRANSMISSION -> PASS FENDER -> BATT NEG(-)

there is path "B" (roughly):

Starter Relay -> STARTER SOLENOID (Blk/Wht) -> TRANSMISSION -> PASS-FENDER -> BATT NEG (-)

So, here's the logic...

IF you have 12V at the heavy black wire that goes between the BATT and the Starter,

AND, you have 12V at the starter solenoid

AND, there is a GOOD ground between the transmission, to the fender, to the BATT (-)

THen

EIther the starter runs (it is good), or it does not run (starter is bad).

Since you tested the starter and it is good, then...

EITHER the BATT -> Starter path is poor (batt poor, cable poor)
OR, the GROUND PATH BACK TO THE BATTERY IS POOR,
OR, the Starter relay to Starter solenoid path is broken..

? Have I missed anything?

If you have a voltmeter or test light..

1) touch the lead to the heavy connector on the starter - there should always be 12V (or so)... and if it drops below 10V (or so) while starting then suspect the battery, cable, or ground.

2) touch the lead to the starter solenoid blk/wht lead from the starter switch/relay... it should show 12V when the key is turned and the clutch depressed.. if not, you need to diagnose that circuit. SOmetimes, the little plastic buttons on the clutch pedal fall apart and that will disable the starter relay circuit.

3) touch the transmission chassis while attempting to start the engine. If it lights up or more than a volt or two shows on the meter (between there and BATT (-)), then the ground is bad and needs repair/replacement.

Mark

 

I did have a voltmeter But it grow lags and walk some where

 

Also can the battery cable "go out" there is no corrosion on it at all. Where is the starter relay located???

 

Sometimes, corrosion can be hidden under the plastic covering, especially near the battery where acid can creep under the edges. That's why checking with a voltmeter is important - don't trust your eyes.

To check the output of the starter relay, test the black/white wire (smaller of the two) that goes to the 'starter' - it's the start signal from the relay. You should see 12V there when attempting to start.

That same wire is the one fcm recommended applying 12V to, to see if the starter would activate (car in neutral!)...

Get a meter or a test light - you can do this by eye - and they're not expensive.

Mark

 

A 12V test light will be $2.49 at just about any auto parts shop.

You do not need a multimeter to do the above tests, a 12V test light will work.

Also as I mentioned you do not need a meter or test light to do the bypass jump.

If engine cranks when doing a bypass jump the starter and starter solenoid are good and so is batt. cable connection and the starter ground, the problem is before the starter, [ign. switch, starter relay, CIS or the wiring between them and the starter]. 94

 

taking it in to the shop tonight I just dont have the time to look for the problem. I know I know what a fail

 

I just noticed you're in PDX - I'm about 1/2 hour away near Battle Ground. Might be able to help and can bring the voltmeter...

as an option.

 

Oh damn I just seen this, I took it to a shop they fixed it I cause the starter signal was not getting to the solenoid cause of the post that comes from the starter was to tight???? It cost me $150 lol thats 150 I could have used for another mod