Yo, so I have the d15 b2 multi point set up, one of two sensors is shittin out on me so I'm just going to replace the manifold with a multi point rather than spending money till I fix the problem. Any suggestion on a certain year civic I should pull it and the ecu + harness out of?? Thanks

 

So you're telling me a ECU and engine harness would be cheaper than just replacing two sensors? Do you even know what sensors are going bad? What codes are you throwing?

 

It's not throwing anything, the light came on once and reset itself after I shut it off and started it back up, Ivan get a hook up on the parts that's why, and I'm wanting to convert it to multi port from the dual port, but another problem I just ran into is I can only use 88-91 to stay in the obd0 , if I go with obd1 what all do I need to convert it, it's still just the harness ecu and intake manifold right?

 

It started to idle surge for like a min. An then the rpm's would jump up for a sec. Not its hard to keep it running, I replaced the ignition control modual and their fixed it( this was before te idle surge) so the other day it wouldn't stay running or **** so I replaced it again but it didn't help, so my guess is it's the fast idle or iac

 

Nvm, distributor , sry for the bad spelling, on phone

 

If it was your IAC valve it would throw a code.....and what exactly happened? I cant understand what you're saying besides it surged at first and you replaced the ignition control module twice but it fixed the problem once but now it wont stay running? Can you give a better a discription and are you sure you're not throwing a code?

 

Here you go, it helps to search...

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/88-91-crx-ef-civic-frequently-asked-questions-faqs-1508680/

 

I don't know what this guy is trying to say. I think some people need to go back to school and learn how to speak English again.

 

de de de

 

Lol, something is effd in my distributor is what I'm thinkn now. I'll start over.. First time something went wrong it would shut of and turn back on, as if u flipped a light switch fast, so I replaced the ignition control modual and it fixed. Then about a week ago it started doing the idle surge and when it wasn't doing that the idle would go up just a little bit , sit there and then go back down. So then I'm drivin the other day and it started cuttin out again, like flipping a light switch on and off, some times it would Kik right back on or it would take a min. To get it started and to keep it running. So two days ago I replaced the ignition control again and it didn't fix it, the the idle surge I know for sure is a sensor, but it cutting out I'm thinkn is the distributor , especially if the control mod. Keeps fryin ever 2 or 3 months. So I guess an entirely new distributor will fix that prob. Not sure tho

 

Or could the map sensor do that also?

 

Again I will ask....are you sure you're not throwing any codes? The ECU has a LED on it that will flash the code.

 

It won't flash if the check engine light isn't on tho right? That's what I heard, so I haven't checked the ecu yet

 

Could be numerous of things, how old is your cap, rotor, and coil? What sensor is going bad? The ECU would tell you if a sensor is bad. If you really are frying out your ignition module then something is sending to much power to it.

 

Its all factory from 89, besides the cap, cap is maybe 6 months old. If the check imagine light isn't on WILL the ecu still show a code?

 

Yes.........in a way, I've had my computer throw code 20 without a CEL and code 9 but the code 9 was fixed so the ECU just had to be reset. It's hard to help you if you have done no diagnosis yourself. I'd first just check your ECU for a code, it takes a total of five minutes. I mean you're sitting here asking that question when you could've checked and answered your own question. Start the car, pull the carpet and see if it's throwing a code. If not, then I'd check your rotor, coil, spark plugs and wires. Since you said "It's all factory from 89". Check to see if your cap has malfunctioned, sometimes the peg that goes into the coil will break. If you replace or check all of them and they seem to be fine then I'd go after fuel components. You're fuel filter could be clogged or even the lines, or the fuel pump could be going out. As you said, "it's all factory from 89". We can only go off what you tell us and better grammar is helpful because it's hard to decipher some sentences therefor most people on here wont bother even trying to help you if they cant read what you're saying. I'm not trying to rag on you, I'm just trying to help you in the long run. And if you really are frying your ingnition module then something is sending to much juice to it or there's a short somewhere.

 

New fuel filter and wal bro 190 pump, only reason I haven't checked the ecu is cause I've been waiting for the cel to come on cause I heard the ecu won't flash unless it's on,. I don't think it's fuel tho because Ive been driving it while it doesn't, it could start dieing or it will run for an hr, it does what it wants, that's why I'm thinking distributor is shittin out. A new one is 80$ so I'm gunna hit that first and then go to the map, if it persists, I'll post up about the ecu code in about 2 hrs when I get home

 

Alright so I checked the ecu, boy do I feel like a dummy for not doin it before . I was in a hurry and it's my first time reading the ecu, I got a 17,140,70, and 130. Since the nbers don't go into the hundos I'm guessing it was a 13, 14 and a 7 because 70 has to do with auto transmission, I'm gunna check again after work to make sure I got the right numbers... Those codes r iac, baro, tp sensor, or map sensor or vss, so I guess it's damn near all the sensors, nothing having to do with distributor. I just don't know if those sensors can cause the symptoms I'm having . But like I said I'll check again when not in such a rush

 

I would recheck your codes....I don't know what OBD you are but with a D15b I assume OBD 0. 13 is barometric pressure, 14 is IAC valve and 7 is TPS......I'd recheck the codes just to be sure, you said it was your first time. Each code will blink fast then pause for a second then another code will start blinking or the same one will blink, then repeat process infinity. If your codes are correct then you can check your wiring or voltage from the sensors. Yes these codes can cause your symptoms.

 

Right on, thanks man. How do u check the voltage? With the litt box electritions use? And then stick it in the plug comming from the car?

 

yes "the litt box electritions use" is called a volt meter

 

I know lol , just wasn't sure if that was it, I'm goin to re check it now

 

Ok, so I checked again,The flash and then pause fallowed by 7 quick flash's is 17, but after that it does 14 blinks with no pause... So does the first flash from the 17 carry over to those 14 flashes making it 24? So confused

 

No.....ok, say you're throwing code 7 and 9. It'll blink seven quick times, then pause for a second (no blinking) then blink nine quick times. Then it'll go back to seven then nine....and keeps repeating that process.

 

Ok well it did the one blink, paused, then did 7, then a pause and did 14 flashes, then started all over