So I just bought a diversion 180 (great machine!) and I'm currently taking welding at the local college.

Anyways. I can do great beads on what I'm working with flat aluminum, but I want to weld my intercooler piping up so I won't have to use couplings. I'm not sure how to tac it with tig yet (I haven't had much practice other than flat beads) and I'm not sure what heat to use on such thin aluminum. It's 2.5" and 3" piping but it's thin walled so any suggestions on either of those?

Thanks!

 

I'm by no means a expert welder, but I usually just use the filler rod to help tack the pipes together on each side before I weld.

 

I do the same, I add a little filler to each edge, then heat both up at the same time w the torch, if you added enough filler to the edges, the heat should join them. I then repeat the process on the other side. When I start welding the bead, I start from one of the tacks I made. Tacking aluminum is a little tricky, more so than stainless. Keep practicing, it will get easier and easier, and your tacks will get smaller and smaller.

Also, I used to use 3/32 filler, now I use 1/16. I think I like it better, I get smaller tacks and smaller more defined beads.

 

What heat range do you use though for such thin material?

Thanks.

 

I typically have my machine set at 150-200 but use pedal control. You could probably set it at 100 amps or even 80 and be ok on that thin aluminum.

 

i set mine on 120 and use the pedal to control. i had a problem going from practicing on flat then going to round cause i was having problems keeping my torch angle correct. that's probably the hardest thing i had to learn. just get some scrap pipe and practice.. i wouldn't start with anything your trying to make good beads on. another thing i noticed is that I got into a "comfort zone" when welding on flat and i still learning to weld out of my "comfort zone" as i like to call it.. what i mean by this is trying to weld at different angles was really what took me time to get use to. i hope this helps and im not making myself look like a fool..

 

Biggest thing when tacking aluminum with no filler is to have your torch as close as possible to the part. The closer you have the torch the more the heat is focused in a small area and it will fuse. Having the torch to far will only heat the surrounding area and cause it to melt away, also with aluminum you need to taper off the heat slowly because it dissipates heat quickly, it's more likely to pull itself apart and crack. Practice tacking 16ga plate and eventually you will get comfortable and it will be easy to do.

 

Thanks guys. I'm practicing on spare pipe, I got the tacking down, but when I try to lay a bead on it I have the problem of blowing a hole through it. Like as if the heats too hot or something? I was trying that on 70 amps, I tried backing off a little with the pedal. I just figured that it was a little too hot for that thin of material. :/

 

On my 180 I set the amps to around 115 and use my foot control for stuff like the Vibrant pipe bends.

I also use 1/16 filler rod for piping.

 

are you using the pedal to control the heat or are you just mashing it all the way?

 

I use it to control the heat. Basically start off all the way and give it less as the material absorbs heat.

 

Sounds like u need to control the pedal more

 

You might be moving to slow, the longer you wait the more heat you put into the part. Try cranking up the heat and moving faster.