Car not sparking (d16z6)
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: From the bay to stockton
so, car has been making me upset lately 
first, the timing was off, then it started sputtering...
got my timing adjusted, got new spark plugs (old ones were from 2009, some had ash on it, they were black, etc)... was advised to pick up new spark plug wires as well because mine wasn't good anymore... tested it out on friend's brother's car to make sure and it was barely firing and his NGK wires worked on mine and it eliminated the sputtering... so, got them replaced today...
went to autozone. tried to get my car started after picking up my wires and then... it didn't start... tried putting on the new wires... all correctly... car would turn over, but still won't start.
tried to jump start my car... would turn over, but still won't start... then, found out i wasn't getting any spark at all! x_______x;;
so, called the tow truck, got the car home after an hr... the guy jumps onto the seat and goes "what would you say if the car turns on right now?" and i was thinking "i don't know..." he starts the car... the car starts, sounds strong... drove it into my parking lot. WTF?!
i still feel like there has got to be something that needs fixing though if it didn't spark before. i told my brother's friend about it and i told him maybe i need to replace the distributor (weeks ago, i saw black ash below the distributor) and he said no, to just replace the ignition coil.
what do you guys think?

first, the timing was off, then it started sputtering...
got my timing adjusted, got new spark plugs (old ones were from 2009, some had ash on it, they were black, etc)... was advised to pick up new spark plug wires as well because mine wasn't good anymore... tested it out on friend's brother's car to make sure and it was barely firing and his NGK wires worked on mine and it eliminated the sputtering... so, got them replaced today...
went to autozone. tried to get my car started after picking up my wires and then... it didn't start... tried putting on the new wires... all correctly... car would turn over, but still won't start.
tried to jump start my car... would turn over, but still won't start... then, found out i wasn't getting any spark at all! x_______x;;
so, called the tow truck, got the car home after an hr... the guy jumps onto the seat and goes "what would you say if the car turns on right now?" and i was thinking "i don't know..." he starts the car... the car starts, sounds strong... drove it into my parking lot. WTF?!

i still feel like there has got to be something that needs fixing though if it didn't spark before. i told my brother's friend about it and i told him maybe i need to replace the distributor (weeks ago, i saw black ash below the distributor) and he said no, to just replace the ignition coil.
what do you guys think?
Could be the ignitor/ICM as well also check the main relay while you're at it.
Main Relay
http://techauto.awardspace.com/civicrelay.html
ICM/Coil Testing
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...eshooting.html
Main Relay
http://techauto.awardspace.com/civicrelay.html
ICM/Coil Testing
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...eshooting.html
You can check for voltage at certain pins of the main relay to see if it is closing to eliminate that possibility. However, as it's been stated, a hot relay may not work and will once it cools. It's good to have a spare regardless.
I think there is a fuse for the ignition system in the under dash fuse box.
Check voltage at the coil, check voltage at the green/yellow (?) wire going to the ICM and resistance of the coil. You should have 12 volts at the coil. The ICM wire should be 5 volts I think and turn on and off. A very low reading won't turn power on to the coil. Then if the coil has more than 6-8 ohms of resistance at 70*F, it's bad internally...though this test isn't too accurate since a bad coil can test good.
If your coil goes, it usually takes out the ICM, and the ICM can go on it's own from having too much resistance in the ignition system, like if your plugs, cap, rotor, wires are really bad. Advance Auto can test your ICM.
Your best bet is just getting a new distributor, or putting a known good coil and ICM from another distributor into yours. They are different part numbers from Honda, but they're interchangeable. I run a D16Y8 ICM and a coil that came from a D15B7 in my B18C1 distributor.
I think there is a fuse for the ignition system in the under dash fuse box.
Check voltage at the coil, check voltage at the green/yellow (?) wire going to the ICM and resistance of the coil. You should have 12 volts at the coil. The ICM wire should be 5 volts I think and turn on and off. A very low reading won't turn power on to the coil. Then if the coil has more than 6-8 ohms of resistance at 70*F, it's bad internally...though this test isn't too accurate since a bad coil can test good.
If your coil goes, it usually takes out the ICM, and the ICM can go on it's own from having too much resistance in the ignition system, like if your plugs, cap, rotor, wires are really bad. Advance Auto can test your ICM.
Your best bet is just getting a new distributor, or putting a known good coil and ICM from another distributor into yours. They are different part numbers from Honda, but they're interchangeable. I run a D16Y8 ICM and a coil that came from a D15B7 in my B18C1 distributor.
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