How difficult is it to change the rear passenger window motor on a 92 Accord. The window will go down but will not go up. I am trying from the drivers control. I do not hear a motor noise when I push the button to close.

 

It's easy. But, before you replace it you might want to think about something.

The window motor changes direction when the polarity of the elecrical current is reversed. Meaning, if the window moves in one direction but not the other, the motor is not suspected as the failed part.

I would be leaning toward a wiring or swith problem.

 

I agree. I made the stupid mistake of replacing a window motor once without testing the voltage first.

 

bad window switch is less headache than ripping the door open.

 

I found out the the motor makes noise when I try and raise the window but the window does not go up. You can move the window manually up but not down. The drivers switch may be bad because I can not hear the motor trying to raise the window but I can when I use the door window switch. Someone said something about the "regulator" what ever that is. I guess my main fear, and I mean FEAR, is taking the rear door panel off. I guess I should get the shop manual, not a Haynes manual. If it shows a step by step instruction maybe a dummy like me can take it off.

 

The window regulator is just a scissor jack like contraption with a motor attached to it. The window glass sits on top of it and when you press the button, it raises or lowers the glass. Because the regulator has a shape like an X laying on its side, it "regulates" the window so it goes up and down evenly on both ends of the glass. Sounds like your regulator is okay.

As for removing the door panel (if you ever have to), it's nothing to fear at all. The trickiest part is disconnecting the linkage from the inside door handle that lets you unlatch the door from inside the car, and even that's not really that tricky. Also, remember that once you free the panel from the door, there are wires still attached so you have to pull the panel away far enough to reach down in there to disconnect all the harnesses, which are easy to do with thumb and index finger. I usually take a sturdy cardboard box about 12" tall and use it to support the door panel while I am working with the wires.

Your Haynes book is as good as any on instructions for removing the panel. Once all the screws are loose, a vinyl spatula from your kitchen makes a nice prying tool to separate the panel from the door. It's held on by plastic clips/pins. When done, don't leave the spatula in your toolbox like I did, and end up getting fussed at.

 

HA! Yeah, the door latch clip is easy. I felt so dumb after I broke one trying to get it off. Unclip the little plastic piece from the pull-bar and then lift the bar out of the handle assembly.

 

The step that just about all of the books leave out, is that the inside latch handle assembly cannot be freed from the door panel, to get to the connecting rod, until sliding the latch assembly forward towards the engine about ½" or so. It's held on by that one screw, but mostly by notches that are released when sliding it forward.

 

Your regulator/motor assembley should come off with 4 bolts or so, plus the 2 that hold the window on the regulator. I had a problem with my wife's drivers side window going one direction and not the other. It was the regulator, bending onto itself under the force of the electric motor.

Pull that door panel and check your regulator (remember- scissor action, up and down) and check your electrical connections.

It is a good sign that it moves one way, this suggests that your window assembley is operating, just not operating correctly.

Good luck! Nothing to be scared of!

 

OP, if that window definitely works okay from it's own switch, but won't respond properly to the master switch by the driver, this is what you need to replace. I replaced this in mine years ago, but honestly cannot recall the steps. I'm pretty sure I remember you have to take the door panel off, and then seperate the armrest from it in order to separate this switch cluster from its trim. The individual switches have little contacts down inside them that burn out and generally are not repairable. A junk yard is your other option. What they will probably have is the switch and the trim, but you have to hope the trim is the right color.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-93-HONDA-...item230b7b9912

 

I am having the same problem with the 96 Accord.