Had no luck in the misc. Section, so I thought I'd try here.


Info on the car

1998 Acura Integra GSR
stock b20vtec turbo
8psi 300, tuned

Anyhow, recently my car started to act up. One night(30degrees) the car didn't want to start. Noticed that the fuel pump didn't prime(CEL on) but the car turned over.

The next morning, I plugged in a GOOD main relay and the fuel pump primed and car drove normal.

I then took my relay to get re-soldered and took it home and everything was fine again. The next morning(35-40 degrees) I went to warm up the car and noticed the problem was back. CEL on and no prime.

So I checked ALL my fuses and all of them were intact and working.

Later the same day(afternoon 50-60degrees) the car turned on and was normal again. Thinking that maybe taking out all the fuses and putting them back in might've done the trick(loose fuse?)

Anyhow, next morning, SAME EFFIN' deal!!! No prime, CEL on.

So I decide to buy a new relay from Pepboys. Took it home and decided to try my car WITH the old relay(just to see what would happen). What do you know, the damn thing turns on and everything normal:/

Next morning, same deal! No prime, CEL on! Plugged in the new relay from Pepboys and car still doesn't work!

Searched, searched, and searched and said I should check my grounds. All checks out fine.

Seems like the doesn't like working when it's cold out. Any ideas?


Sorry for the essay, but I am out of ideas and thinking that maybe the walbro fuel pump could be going bad? It's about 3 months old. Don't really know the symptoms of one, but i would think that if it were a bad fuel pump, the csr would NOT turn on at all ever.

I REALLY need a car to get to school and work and you guys would REALLY be helping me out by giving me some ideas. It's finals week and I don't need another problem to solve

 

First thing to check are the grounds at the thermostat housing, do not just eyeball them, remove and clean all contact surfaces, then reconnect, [common problem].

If that does not fix problem you are going to have to do some testing at the PGM-FI Main Relay when problem is there.

Unplug the relay and test for powers, there are 3 of them...
1-yellow/green, [hot in run and start].
2-yellow/white, [hot at all times].
3-blue/white, [hot when cranking to start only].

If all 3 powers are good, check the black lead(s) for continuity to ground.

If you have powers and ground plug the relay back in and turn on the ign. if pump does not prime, usa a jumper lead to supply a ground directly to the terminal in the plug with the green/blue lead.

If pump primes the problem is the ECU/ECM or wiring from/to it.
If pump still will not prime the problem is the pump or wiring to it.

You can also do the "feel test", hold the PGM-FI Main Relay in your hand, [plugged in] and turn on the ign., there should be two (2) clicks, the first is the injector relay turning on and the second is the fuel pump relay turning on, it may feel like one click as they are very close together, after a few sec. there will/should be a third click, fuel pump relay turning off.

If you feel the clicks the problem is the pump or wiring to it. 94

 

The fail-when-cold and work-when-warm is consistent with cold solder joints and a typical failure mode of the main PGM-FI relay.

Perhaps the repair missed one...

 

I was thinking the same thing, but he bought a new one at pepboys which should have solved the problem.