So i have been trying to figure out why my car (eg1 with swapped d16z6) has been running like crap the last two weeks. I have been replacing and cleaning everything. Well..Friday night i decided to clean my iacv. Cleaned it and put it back on..no difference in the idling and the jerky throttle response in low gears. Checked the CEL and it came up 14..IACV. well..car was still cold..unplugged the IACV and....NO MORE FLUCTUATING IDLE! its the weirdest things..car runs great! starts up cold with higher idle but doesn't bounce and I can hold the throttle at a steady mph without it jerking the car back and forth. So i now know what the problem is, but what exactly do I do to get IACV plugged back in and running like this with the check engine light off?! I know I need it plugged in, but it runs so good right now. Any thoughts?! I really want this all to be figured out so I don't have to try fixing all this crap over and over. For once, I would like my car to run correctly with no problems. Could it still be my ECU? i don't know anyone that lives near me that can let me borrow their p28 to see and I don't know if I want to buy another ecu to find out thats not the problem. If it comes down to it, I will buy another..just don't want to get stuck with two of them. Thanks everyone.

 

Bleed the cooling system and test both the ECT sensor and the TPS.

 

okay. ill try that tomorrow.

 

If i don't have a multimeter...what would be the next best way to check the TPS and ECT without buying one? im getting one for a christmas present..so I would rather not buy one..haha..gotta love Santa. Could I get it checked at like an Autozone or Advanced Auto parts?

 

You MUST have a multimeter or an expensive scan tool to test the ECT and TPS. No, an auto parts store will not test sensors for you. They probably would not know how to test them anyway.

 

haha..your probably right. okay..i will see about borrowing one from someone. thanks.

 

Click here.

 

Harbor freight sells a multimeter for about 5 bucks. At the time when I got mine a few months ago I paid a little less

 

The FITV controls the engine idle when the engine is cold.
When the engine is warmed up the IACV controls the engine idle and running performance.
If your in Wisconsin in December the engine is probably staying cold and the FITV is controlling everything.
I would get the engine really warmed up maybe even block the radiator with cardboard temporarily just to warm up the engine and then you would see the value of a clean IACV.

 

i know what the IACV and FITV do..but its not the FITV that is making the car run like crap. My car warms up fine..and when it does it runs like **** with the IACV plugged in. Now that is unplugged..there are no problems.

Im picking up a new ECT sensor tomorrow and installing that. I will also be testing my tps soon too..ill make sure to keep updating.

 

Why not test the ECT sensor before replacing it?? It should show 200-400 Ohms of resistance when the engine is hot.

 

i still have to test the one i have..i can always return it if the one I already have is in working order.

 

are there cheap places to get OEM tps & ECT sensors?

 

so i tried testing my ECT when its cold..don't get a reading..on either of the sensors. WHen I tested it when it was warm, i also didn't get a reading. I checked the tester...brand new batteries and also tested the ohm reading and zero'd it out. I don't know what I was doing wrong or if I was doing something wrong. I also was get a CEL for the ECT..i put in the new one and no longer get the CEL for it! So i think i solved that problem.

For the next CEL...my del sol is an S model with a now d16z6. so it has a map sensor on the firewall that had hose connected to the top of the TB. Now that its a z6, the TB has a map sensor on the top that has a connector for in on the engine harness. So now that the map sensor on the firewall is not plugged in to the sensor but is still directly wired up to the ecu..i get a map sensor cel. Should i go and find where the wires are in the ecu wire harness and cut them off or what would be the best way of deleting that map sensor on the firewall from the d15b7 engine with its TB that is no longer on the car?

 

CAR IS RUNNING PERFECT!!!!! My map sensor on my tb wasn't getting any power to it! The ecu harness didnt have a power wire for the map sensor plug in the engine harness! so I just took the map sensor plug that is on the firewall and plugged that in since it is wired into the ecu harness...works flawlessly! I cleaned the IACV and FITV, they didn't make any difference, but atleast now i know they are clean. so the extra $150 some dollars i was spending on new parts, didnt need to but again nice to know they are new. I never knew how to use a multimeter so thats why i didn't check the map sensor or any other sensors right away..such an easy mistake! hAHAHA..motor feels real strong..a lot stronger than before, now just have to see about the MPG! So excited right now..time for BOOOST!

 

hey man, i have the same problem with the jerky throttle at low rpm. I haven't gotten around to cleaning the IACV. I have a y8 manifold on my y7. Could this cause a problem?

 

Try unplugging it and see how it runs. if it doesn't change you might want to check the IACV with a multimeter and you should be getting between 8-15 ohms. I also cleaned my FITV which is connected to the TB on the bottom of it. Clean both with carburetor cleaner.

 

A dirty IACV/throttle body can EASILY cause this problem...