So, I got to thinking after, B18C.EK's thread about his motor mount making noise, I have the same symptoms. So my question is, if these are just inserts, meaning they work together with the stock rubber mounts, and my rear mount is damaged/torn, should I replace the stock rubber mount first, then apply the polyurethane mount to the new rubber?

My first thoughts were that the new urethane mounts just simply replace the stock rubber in the motor mount, but after researching it doesnt seem this is a correct first assumption.

BTW, I got a price quote on new energy suspension inserts installed for about $420!!! 4 hours labor @ 95 bux an hour and about 40-45 bux for the inserts. But my R is squeaking in pain if I dont do it! lol!

 

New mount + insert if your going to go that way, or find a used mount if you can and then install insert.

Other options include harder rubber mounts as well. Depends on what your going to be doing with the car.

 

Those inserts are garbage, held in by zipties and they fall out

just use polyurathane to fill them, black in a tube at home depot. cost you less then $10including buying the calking gun

 

first off stay away from polyurethane, its junk, it dries up and just causes problems


if your ready to spend over 400 bucks, just buy some hardrace mounts, they even look like factory, but use hardened rubber to be stiffer the factory but still have great quality and only cost 265 dollars for all 5 mounts
http://www.velocityshop.com/product/...tegra_325.html

and dont pay someone to install them, take 2 hours out of your day and do it your self, they are super easy to install

 

That rear mount is a royal PITA. I saw several references to the WTDR method, but could not find any write-up.

 

The WTDR method did work. IIRC, there is a write up on another site which cannot be named here.

IMO, stay away from the inserts and go with Hard Race or Mugen mounts.

 

I even looked there without luck.

 

-remove the 4-14mm bolts and pull out the subframe stiffener
-remove the 4 bolts that hold the rear 'T' mount in place
-move the rear portion of the mount over and up towards the fuel filter
-install inserts (after cleaning off the OEM mount)
-start the bolts into the threads and then tighten them all down


I found it.

 

Honestly if you are going through that much trouble (rear mount in particular) you might as well replace the mounts with hardrace versions or an equivalent. I recently went with the hardrace mounts, I had the energy inserts including the rear on my GSR and let me tell you be ready for the car to shake . 65A durometer is what I went with I believe.

 

CRAP, too many options! lol! My R is stock and daily driven. Wont ever track the car, except quarter mile. I dont want the ear wax shaken out of my ears. I don't think I would mind a little bit stiffer, but then again I dont really know how stiff mounts feel, never drove or ridden in a car with them.

I didn't know the polyurethane dries out, always assumed they were more durable than rubber. After reading the posts about the inserts I wont go that route. So I guess I'll replace them with a slightly stiffer mount compared to OEM, or maybe I'll just go OEM.

Thanks for all the input! Anymore suggestions on brands or whatever is appreciated!

 

I had the Hasport 62A mounts in my GSR. The drive train felt awesome, but wow did they vibrate.

 

If you are daily driving your car and only do the occasional drag racing, go with the hardrace mounts. They are affordable and are only slightly stiffer than stock.

While you're at it, get some of their shifting bushings or the ones from MFactory.

The durometer and the material they are made from is different than the ones from Prothane and the ever popular Energy Suspension.
http://www.teammfactory.com/solid-shifter-bushings

These two modifications arguably will make one of the more pronounced improvements if your car has already done over 50,000miles. Even mounts that LOOK like they are in good condition CANNOT control the violent rocking at high rpm shifts.

Every time an R is on our dyno, I make a video and show it to our customers so they understand WHY they should be investing in better mounts.

 

the rear mount is a bitch but the lower two are easy. the energy inserts help quite a bit and the asshat that mentioned they are held in by zipties i really doubt has installed them. the zip ties are not under load and are there just to prevent them from falling out. the impact direction has no bearing on the zip ties. anyway it's a rip for $450. spend $45 on the set and install the lower two yourself in the driveway. takes literally a few minutes. the rear you can wait on. imo the only way to do the rear easy is with a cherry picker to pull the engine up, remove the mount completely. install the inserts and reinstall the mount

i should also note that your lower 2 MUST be in good condition. if they are not replace with something else since the energy kit needs intact mounts to function properly

poly doesn't "dry out" it's fking plastic for pete's sakes. what it can do is wear and sometimes crumble depending on the chemistry that hits it. freezing conditions, road salts and the midwest are hard on the stuff. poly lives virtually forever on the west coast.

remember, the harder it gets the more vibrations you'll feel. that said, if you have a stock car that you don't race, hardrace or oem honda isn't a bad idea. if you want more....well....energy to hasport...choose your budget

 

Thanks racebum for the info. I'll look into the hardrace brand you mentioned. the name threw me off, makes them sound super stiff. im an idiot. lol