Whats going on H-T... I am having a hard time choosing a turbo. I don't know if I should go with a smaller ball bearing T3/T4 or a go with a ball bearing GT35-R. I am wondering if the spool up on the GT35-R will be faster because it is ball bearing? This car was supposed to be a daily driver not sure if that possible at this point.

Here are some questions that I have?

What kind of hp do you think I can I put down safely?
How do I get it to the ground?
Do I need LSD?
Anyway, here's what I am looking at.

GSR Block
GSR crank
ARP head studs
Eagle rods SRP pistons 9.0:1 comp ratio
B16 head with fully built valve train. Valves, Springs and TI retainers.
Brain Crower stage 2 turbo cams
Adjustable came gears
Type-r intake manifold port matched to 68mm
68mm throttle body
1000cc injectors (I know there a bit big but my tuner says they shouldn't be a problem as there peak and hold)
ram horn header
3" exhaust all the way back
going to be running Neptune or a S300 still debating...

Any advise or experience, comments as long as there constructive... would be grateful.
I was also thinking about how I was going to get all this power to the ground. Tires?
here a few pics of what I got so far, I am going to TRY to track my build progress.

anyway,
thanks again!

 

you have hte wastegate mounted wrong

 

What kind of wastegate/manifold (company) is that?

Also you never mentioned what youre power goals are to give any turbo selection advice

 

Infinite possibilities for turbo. As stated above, need to know purpose of the car (no E.Ts, please), power level, budget to spend on the turbocharger alone, T3 or T4 flanged, etc

That's too general a build to say anything specific of any particular turbo be it journal or ball-bearing.

 

the manifold looks like an obx ramhorn and the wastegate looks like its a ebay chinese knock off. and yes! the wastegate is mounted wrong.

 

Unfortunatly thats what i was thinking as well...Looks like before he talks about power goals he should be making some other changes first

 

Thanks for the quick replies! I did realize that the waste gate was mounted wrong, Its a ebay knock off... as well as the header. I took it apart and looked at the manufacturing quality. The only thing that bothered me was the spring. Anyway, TheShodan I read one of you previous posts and you said that you can't keep the car on the road after 400hp I guess that's about my goal 350hp-380hp perhaps 400hp. I was hoping for a fast spool up.

 

That ram horn is going to crack on you and the waste gate will boost creep and kill the motor with over boost. As for a turbo one choice is a T3/T4 60 trim, that will get you to 350-400whp and still spool up nicely. You dont want to get boost to soon or you will not be able to control the car (spin tires). Sounds to me like you need to do some more reading before you turbo that motor, putting knock off parts on a turbo car is a no no. TheShodan will be more helpful with turbo selection that I am. Your tuner should also be able to help you choose a turbo. Your tuner should also be telling you to buy quality parts as well. Intense Motorsports a pretty big tuner locally for anything boosted tried to sell me a ebay turbo kit when I went asking about turboing my Civic. I quickly asked the guy what was up with that and I wanted a real set up hand made mani, quality turbo ect. I ended up walking out because they just wanted to put a China turbo kit on my car. I worked for this shop and know they are better than that, dont think they wanted to do a Honda. The are all gay for G35's and 350Z's.

 

Can any of you guys recommend a few good brands for turbo manifolds? I have been all over the internet looking for something that is quality and that wont break the bank.

 

Full-Race is going to be best quality/Warranty...as a cheaper alternative i believe the Go-autoworks manifolds looks decent. I have peakboost and there no longer in buisness...It has cracked once and had it re-tig'd.

 

www.hondamarketplace.com

Find something in here that fits your budget...our vendors sell some top of the line stuff and it often goes overlooked in lieu of Ebay or Craigslist garbage.

 

I can absolutely help you choose the right turbocharger, and I agree with kbouchard1092, that the Go-Autowerks kit is the best to use. You want to stay T3 Flanged, and think about whether or not you're keeping A/C and Power steering, as that will determine which manifold is best. And for god's sake, no TOP MOUNTS for this setup. you're using this as a street attack setup, so don't go out and get parts as though you're some FWD Class NASCRA racer..

Here's what you do: I'm in a real nice mood today, so I'll be as illustrative as possible

Get everything in this kit except for the turbocharger. I'll help you with that part, but understand that this is the setup as though you're not using A/C or powersteering. The intercooler is a bit on the large side, but works well for this power goal and much more in case you want to change your purpose later, be it road racing or more drag strip.



The good part about this kit is that it takes a lot of the guesswork of what you need to get it to properly run. Most people who cheapen out or fall for the Ebay-monkey, forget that the oil feed lines, fittings, flanges, t-bolt clamps and hoses that are needed do not come with most kits. In your case, you'll be getting rid of the bullshit manifold and wastegate for genuine TiAL, Garrett, andreliable products that will last for years to come. It comes with a TiAL wastegate 38mm MVS, a TiAL BOV, and piping to fit all of these items in your engine bay without an issue. You'll need a half sized radiator more than likely, but I'll point to that later.

Here's the turbocharger I recommend.

GT3255b -Journal Bearing turbocharger

That's right, I said Garrett for this young chap, because a billet wheel isn't necessary for the aerodynamics that he needs and if something goes wrong, even if the original dealer drove off a cliff, he can go to any repair facility that uses Garrett replacement parts and fix the turbocharger for years to come without hang up or issue. Stick with the 4 bolt exhaust downpipe flange, as it will be easier to integrate into the rest of the turbo system. It also bolts up to the Go-Autowerks kit, (in which he has the bolts needed to supply it), so you're good here.

The turbocharger reaches maximum pressure under 20psi by about 3300-3600 depending upon fuel and timing. its a hair over 53lbs/min, so it works quite well with your setup throughout the entire rpm band. Quite a few have used this in years past and have been very pleased with it. its maximum power is about 425-440whp with maximum efficient pressure at about 23psi. after that, time to get something bigger. But this is a GREAT way to start off in turbocharger land.








The cool part about these are that 1) they still use Garrett GT wheel designs without breaking the bank and still have great response, and 2) the water ports included are optional meaning that you don't have to run them if you don't want to... BUT, if you decide to change your style in racing to something more high endurance, You can use 3/8th NPT fittings to run water lines for extra protection. Cool part is that even the TiAL wastegate can run optional water if you want, too. and it fits right with the Go-Autowerks kit. Greg's a good guy.

Injectors
Its good that you got your 1000cc Peak and Hold Delphi Injectors. Others will say just to use the ID1000s from Injector Dynamics, or FIC 1000s from Fuel Injector Clinic, but honestly, as long as you have the correct resistor box, and you already have them.. just use them. Either the Hondata S300 (Be careful, get it from a legit dealer, as there are fakes out there that don't work), or Neptune RTP will be fantastic.

FPR-Fuel Pressure Regulator
You'll need a good FPR (and B&M is a modifyer, not FPR, so this is a no-no.) for those 1000cc injectors, just in case you need to adjust a bit of base fuel pressure, but chances are you won't. .. Yes, yes, the OEM works ok, but with these large an injector, this is better insurance to have. I recommend Aeromotive series. I would also look into the Walboro 400lph pump.. NO KNOCKOFFS.

*sigh* Brian Crower stage II turbo cams.. I don't know what Brian was thinking, but he definitely isn't like his dad was with CROWER parts, so I'm not sure what to tell you without sounding horribly biased against their camshaft quality. I can tell you that these cams were more made for smaller turbochargers like the one I'm suggesting, but in all honesty, a good set of GS-R or ITR cams will do just as well, and last a helluva lot longer than the BC materials. Not to sound too terrible, I'll just say I was offered a sponsored set of BC camshafts to use on a car, after a few colleagues I know had some horrible luck with them breaking and cracking. Needless to say, I sent them back, with a very polite "no thank you", and haven't regretted the decision since. If you've got these cams already... I'm not sure what to tell you but good luck.. If you don't, please avoid them and stick with GS-Rs, ITR, or even CTR camshafts if you can find them. K?

Radiator... You haven't listed this yet, but I recommend a **** Koyorad even over the Mishimoto. I believe even Tony Palo of T1 Race Development has a full shrouded setup and higher capacity fan that would do wonders if you plan to circuit the car, but even he uses a KoyoRad as a base for this.

LSD. Absolutely, if the budget allows for it, but but don't fall for the OEM LSD (Torsen type) for a turbocharged car, because it only works if the wheels are slightly turned, and even then will counter-steer horribly. You need a helical type (or even mechanical) like a Quaife, or MFactory, which sells both types. The helical type is easier to maintain, doesn't have clunky sounds and only locks when needed. The clutch type (Like the type I use for circuit events) is a bit more harsh, but its to match the driving I do with over 360whp-480whp I have on tap, so its needed.
If you're not sure about the difference between the types of LSDs, here's a bit of light reading.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limited_slip_differential

I was fortunate enough to contribute to this article, so hopefully it will help.


Boost controller.... Well, it depends upon the racing you do; there's Manual, Electronic w/ response gain features (GReddy Profec B) for those who want quick change control, and then there are the ECU based boost control systems through the Hondata or Neptune RTP. They all have their good features and bad. You just have to determine, which type best fits your needs.

Well, this is a start.. I'll continue with more if you'd like with more feedback. I know people see that I get elusive about my reasoning on the public part of the forums, but I'm a bit jaded about some aspects of the Honda turbo community as a whole, so I find its best to keep my soapbox rants to a minimum. BUT.. I still like to help guys like yourself who have already taken the first and second steps to get your build going and not expect to be spoon fed all day, like 70% of the new chumps that get on here from other forums...

So here's a BIG SPOONFUL.. enjoy it while it lasts.. ;-)

Just to show that I'm not full of ****, here's another build I help put together for a friend for later in 2012

 

Nice writeup Mac!

Mac is a good guy and will steer you in the right direction. I'm working on finishing my GT3251b build with one of his turbos, so hopefully I'll have some dyno numbers within a couple of weeks that I can share (mine's an LS though). But it will show you a little bit of the characteristics of a turbo similar to the one he's suggesting.

 

X2 i can vouch for this to.

I had a Silver surfer turbocharger off Mac (TheShodan) along with a Miniram/dump tube/down pipe off GO-AUTOWORKS and i love them to pieces. The quality that was in there work was totally mind blowing ! I have some pictures in my build thread of both there work (scroll down towards the bottom) https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/rich777s-b16-engine-build-2997100/ All i can say is the pictures speak for them selves... I'll be definatly using them both again in the future.

 

Mac and H-T thanks for the comments and the great write up. I really appreciate the time and effort it takes to type all this information down.
I have to admit, many times I have really wanted to take shortcuts and not do the right thing but having found solid support from you guys and the sponsored marketplace on H-T! I have decided to take my time and build it right. I am starting to learn that if you want it done the right way you have to pay for it and you have to have PATIENCE!
I have been actively working on this project for about a year and unfortunately I had to put it on hold. I have been deployed to Afghanistan for the past year and I am really excited to start working on again. I have a bunch of parts that need to go on the car. I originally bought the car a 97 DC2 from a girl because of a broken timing belt that jacked up a few of the valves. Since then I have done a manual conversion and dropped out the original LS motor. Like I said I will try to document the build, but I am assuming that the thread will need to be moved or I could just start a new one in the appearance build section.
Mac, I am going to do some research on the turbo that you recommended, do you know where I can get that particular turbo? I am going to be moving around here in the next month, and probably wont get to the car for a month or two, but I promise I will keep every one up to date as my build progresses!

 

Funny enough, the best research on this turbo is on this forum. Use the Google search instead of the VB search on here. You'll get tons of results.

BE SAFE, GET HOME SAFELY... Thank you for your service, and let me know when you're ready to put it all together. I'll make sure you're properly assisted.