(Have searched forums here and seen similar issue but no solutions that have worked for me) - Driver's side window wouldn't go up a couple weeks ago. Then worked... then didn't. Last it worked, would go down but not up - now nothing. All other 3 windows work. Fuse is fine (obviously, if other windows work). Replaced switch... no action. Bought new motor/regulator - hooked up (not installed) but no action from switch; other 3 still work.

a) any ideas? I've spent way too much time on this
b) any way to move regulator so window is stuck "UP" instead of down - so I can drive in Ohio in December?!
Thanks

 

Are you sure the #28 underhood fuse is good? And if you say, "the others work so it can't be a fuse" then I suggest you actually read the manuals and follow the wire diagrams.....using the FSM for my 94 (same gen as yours).

Key on, do you have 12v at the GRN/WHT wire (pin #10) into the switch?

 

Thanks for the tip... I was only checking fuses under the dashboard (labeled for power windows) and didn't realize there were additional fuses under the hood. Read elsewhere on forum that if fuse blown, nothing works... but you were right. Found the under-hood fuse and it was blown. Then had to work backwards to determine that switch was also bad; motor seems to be okay. At least I was able to get window up.

Still very slow going up, and sometimes stops - but tried new motor/regulator and no better. Going to try silicone spray on window tracks as mentioned in another forum - any chance track is bent somehow? Why is it slow to the point of stopping, and should I worry about burning up motor (or could this be why fuse blew and switch broke?)

 

About 6 yrs ago I had that problem and it was the armrest switch. It would work sometimes and other times refuse to do a thing. One day a puff of smoke came out of it which was one of the little worn contacts in it finally frying completely. I took the switch off and apart to see how it was built and found nothing really rebuildable. I ended up getting the whole switch assembly off ebay for a good price. I should have gotten 2, because they are getting hard to find for my year and trim color.

More recently, drivers window kind of started wiggling and going off track as it rolled up. Suspected regulator but wanted to rule other stuff out. Took off door trim panel and squirted silicone directly onto both sides of that lower rubber track and window was good as new.

 

I have a similar problem that i haven't been able to figure out with my '97 Accord SE sedan.

last week driver's window stopped going up. it had no problem going down, but no up. so i took the door apart and tested the motor by hooking up to the battery. motor works fine and window goes back up. ok, so must be the switch, right? at this time i noticed that the sunroof stopped working. i wasn't sure how they were related but hoped that replacing the switch would fix it. so i get a new switch, wire it up, and driver's window does nothing. other windows work fine, but still no sunroof function. i take another look at the fuse board and realize that i had blown the driver's window fuse, probably when hot wiring it to battery i'm assuming. replace it, but the window still doesn't work, but the sunroof now does, as it's the fuse sitting right above the drivers window fuse.

so now i'm stuck. is it the wiring? if so, how do i find the loose connection or bad wire? is there anything else that could be going on?

any help greatly appreciated.

 

So are you still with the window will go up with the switch but not down?

Or do you now have no control of the window, Up or Down.

 

lost again,

currently i have no operation of the window at all, up nor down. other windows and sunroof working fine.

 

Dude, while the car is off, and in the the key in the accesories position (II), move the switch to cause the window to go down and hold it that way for 30 secs. Listen to the motor in the door. After about 30secs you will hear a faint click coming from the door panel. If you did hear that, cabling should be fine. Leave the switch rest for at least 15 secs. Now, move slowly the switch to pull the window up. Listen to the motor on the door while doing that. You might hear the motor starting and cutting off right away -window might move a bit-. If you did hear the motor moving a little bit, swicth is fried/dirty. Disassble the rocker switch and clean the contacts.

Disassembling the switch is a bit of a pain, when you take the pieces out mind that under a rubber cover under the switches there is a little coil and a plastic rocker arm. Do not lose those. Those are part of the AUTO mechanism of the power windows. Loose that and you will find yourself buying another switch assembly, which is kinda expensive. With a bit of fine grain sandpaper, rub the contacts where the switch touches and look for spots where plastic looks melted. If you have melted plastic that means the motor is working extra to compensate for dirty/old window runners. You might want to change those. Although, with a bit of liquid silicone and a suringe you can get away with using those runners until you come up with the money to buy new ones.

Here's a video about changing the window run channels/runners.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1svF3Pmolc

 

[QUOTE=rookierepair;46461388]Thanks for the tip... I was only checking fuses under the dashboard (labeled for power windows) and didn't realize there were additional fuses under the hood. Read elsewhere on forum that if fuse blown, nothing works... but you were right. Found the under-hood fuse and it was blown. Then had to work backwards to determine that switch was also bad; motor seems to be okay. At least I was able to get window up.

Still very slow going up, and sometimes stops - but tried new motor/regulator and no better. Going to try silicone spray on window tracks as mentioned in another forum - any chance track is bent somehow? Why is it slow to the point of stopping, and should I worry about burning up motor (or could this be why fuse blew and switch broke?)


Grease the tracks clean with alcohol pad first could help