Hey guys wats up!

Im new here from Germany, boosted since 4 weeks and its lots of fun haha

Specs:

-Precision 5830 (Gt3076r replacement)
-Stock B16A2 with Cometic 0.07"
-CC Stage 4 clutch
-full 76mm exhaust + DP
-200 cells cat
-ID1000's
-Walbro
-46mm Precision wastegate
-50mm Tial bov
-2.25" piping

thats about it just clean and simple...wastegate set to 0.6 bar and its pushing 280whp!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0siic...el_video_title

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nm5LR...feature=relmfu

now we come to the bad part....

I cant get the Idle to work propably!

Problem is that the car stalls...it idles fine in the beginning sometimes goes up and down like its leaking air somewhere but then it goes down and down till it dies..

-Only hav a IACV no fast idle valve(car is an EK4 from 95')
-IACV cleaned and then replaced with 100% working one

we set on the chip that it idles at 1500rpm ---> all good

but the minute i put the other chip in it dies on me!

checked the hoses and they are rock hard as if there's pressure from somewhere although i got all air out the coolant?!

hope somebody can help me, thanks sebastian

 

your iacv seem to be working fine. what are you tuned with. whats your afr when it is idling below 1000rpms before it dies.

 

Its tuned with crome. I cant tell u the exact afr but when we tuned it, the afr were fine and i trust my tuner(he's done that alot of times before me)

The tune is actually the last thing im worried about and doesnt explain the pressure in the hoses etc...

 

the increase in pressure in the radiator hose is normally due to a stuck thermostat, radiator fan not working or blown head gasket. im assuming your fan is working or u would have said something. if there is a milky residue in your oil cap then it is a blown head gasket for sure. you can also do a leak down test to check for a blown head gasket as well.

 

since the idle u say is some what loopy. i would also check for a vac leak somewhere. i would also mess with the adjustment screw on the tb to try to get it to idle. i asked about the tune due to there being variations in the iat settings for different temps. so if it was only dyno tuned then the first 20 min of your car warming up at idle could be off along with the first column in the tables set for the idle.

 

good point...I was thinking of a blown head gasket because the fan is running and everything else was fine..

other thing is:

-no smoke
-drives perfect, pulls hard
-died after idling for 1 min at the first start already

could it still be the headgasket?!
wasnt clean enough when installing maybe?! or something blocked?!
thanks for answering

 

almost forgot. stuck radiator cap too. head gasket could still be blown w/o blowing smoke yet but i still believe your idle needs to be checked by your tuner if you cant find the problem. im sure a few more people will chime in later on since its night time over here n the US.

 

OK NEWS!!!!

I've been re-thinking bout all this stuff and i came to a conclusion which is:

-When my car is cold it idles fine...once the water temp goes up it will idle lower which is right but then starts dying after dropping to a certain rpm range!

-Can smell petrol after stalling

SO: I guess my watertemp sensor is bad!

The one that gives the info to the ecu because the factory temp gauge is working fine!

The sensor reads that the engine is cold--> injects more fuel when idling-->cold start

Then the ecu drops the rpm to what the idle is set but the sensor still reads cold so it injects too much for the lower rpms and then it drowns in fuel because its running too rich which explains the smell!!

Could this be possible although im not getting any Engine check light on my dash?!

 

That could easily be it.. check that ECT sensor.. that could definitely be the case here. GOod catch.