Hi all. My hatchback won't start.
I have spark on all 4 wires. My fuel pump does indeed prime. My main relay clicks, and my CEL goes off with the click. I crank the motor approximately 3 times and my oil light goes out. I am not low on oil, and am not sure why this happens. Engine is a D16y8, it was throwing code 7 for TPS but I tested the TPS and it is functioning properly. I was having issues with my distributor wiring since one of the wires got caught on my intake and broke, so I fixed it all and verified at the ECU, double checked it too.

Any help is appreciated.

 

what color is the spark? orange? it needs to be blue.


We had a similar problem yesterday. had everything. dizzy sparked from the spark plug and also arching to the valve cover from the wire.

Use a dizzy from a working car and it should start right up.

 

+1

Had the same problem out of my 89 crx before I sold it. I was running a Y8 head/intake on an A6 block. What type of distributor are you using?

 

obd2?

 

An a6 distributor actually works on a Y8 head (and even bolts up in ALL three spots) if you're keeping everything obd-o, which is what I would so. Running a one wire vtec on a ps9 (ex auto) ecu.

 

How did you verify fuel was good? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge to see what psi you're running? I say all this because I recently ran into a problem with my crx where the rubber fuel line in my tank that goes from the top of the fuel pump to the supply line ruptured. Of course I could still here the walbro priming up, but it wasn't able to get enough fuel up to the motor. It was just leaking the fuel right back into my tank. Yes, some gas was making its way to the motor. I could pull the supply line, cycle the key on, and gas would spew out. It just wasn't getting the proper pressure to fire the car up. I dropped the tank and BAM! big *** hole in the rubber line lol. So... check for proper fuel pressure.

 

My spark is blue and a little orange. I am using a distributor from a 93 civic, running obd1 on a p28 ecu.

I will try my buddy's distributor and see if it helps.

The spark plugs get wet with fuel.

 

I am betting ignition timing is off, might need to advance it all the way and see if it starts or retard it all the way...i know this question has come up before I just dont recall the answer off the top of my head.

 

Be sure to dry those plugs off before you try cranking it again. I'd check the gap too. Also, as far as ignition timing, I can adjust mine from one end to the other without killing the motor. But you should def throw a timing light on it once you get it running again.

 

main relay is good. figured that out today.
fuel and spark are present. this has to be a wiring issue at this point.
if i fully retard my ignition timing, and hold the throttle half open, it will idle at 200-500 RPM. very puzzling indeed.

 

it ran for a bit and then died. code 15 now. thinking that a new distributor might be a good purchase at this point.

 

The oil pressure "idiot light" should go out if your engine builds oil pressure. This verifies it is working properly. An engine doesn't have to be running to be able to build oil pressure; it only needs the oil pump to be turning.

As far as your electrical issue... There is a possibility you have fouled your plugs, your distributor is bad, the ECU was fried from wires shorting out, or you need to tripple check that wiring.

 

alright so at this point i got it to run for a bit. we went to do ignition timing and now it won't turn over. throwing code 15, ignition control module

i got my wiring and such figured out. hoping it is just a bad coil at this point. tested the resistance between + and - on the coil, got 0.001. + and the spring, 16. bad coil? i guess so. new spark plugs, still nice and clean, gapped properly. ECU seems fine, still giving me feedback.

thanks for the info on the oil light. my battery light goes out when i start to crank also. battery is fully charged. bad coil? not getting spark, but definitely getting power to the coil.

 

R u sure you're doing it correctly? coil resistence between A and B should be around 1.1 ohm, A and External should be around 13,000 ohm (Chilton's spec)

 

that comma is the decimal place essentially. the official Honda service manual says 0.001 and 15-19 respectively.

anyways regardless the issue is a bad coil and some very choppy distributor wiring. it's fixed, now i'm getting the o2 sensor heater code. i'm not surprised since my old spark plugs were fouled as well. if there is some way to just clean the o2 sensor that would be cool. probably just going to get a new one. thanks guys.

 

at least yours cranks! mine wont even turn over and im getting code 0!

 

are you setting ignition timing to 16degrees btdc or 12?


it should be 12