my eyes are about to pop out from all the searching ive done in these past 3 days.... i have an idea of what i can do, but i need to settle the questions in my head... fill me in please...

the car is a 92 civic si, its going to be rwd... i planned on using the stock knuckles with crv hubs to make it 5 lug... but started thinking...

1. what holds the hub in place? is the pressure against the bearing all it is, or did the axles help keep it there?

2. is it possible to use some other factory front spindle? like s2000 perhaps?


any info would be appreciated, thanks...

 

anyone?

 

Why don't you just go with a tried and true setup and not try and break new ground? If you want to be a pioneer don't wait for anyone to help you. It's not the riddle of the Sphinx.

 

I don't have any clue if you could use the s2k hub. You could use a ITR hub, a CTR if you could even get ahold of a set.

 

its pressed in and axles hold it in. just get a 7/8th or 1' bolt (not exactly sure how big the spindles r) and bold the hub in lol. or get an old set of axles and modify away

 

Yes, I have a 4WD CRV and the axle nut/axle combo is what holds the hub in and bearing together. We ditched the rear diff. and axles and had to install a bolt/nut to hold the bearing together....

 

i dont remember asking opinions if i should do my project or try to be the first on this. ive seen a number of builds that are similar but didnt see anything about the front spindle/knuckles... and your tried and true set up, well they did start somewere and was a pioneer at it... its not like i dont have a clue or im not capable of accomplishing my goals, sorry but im not your average joe...

 

thanks for your inputs, i really appreciate them... i was thinking of the bolt thru crv hub, it may be the wiser end of it. although using the front spindle assembly from an s2000 would be awsome... but as reality kicks in, crv hubs look promising...

if theres any other suggestion, please feel free... thanks again

btw, will the first gen crv front hub fit?

 

link on bearing preload( this example is in heavy duty vehicles but can still apply) from timken a well reputable and oem bearing supplier to many manufacturers
http://pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista...20pre-load.pdf

You 100% need a bolt with a nut, the bearing is designed to have a specific preload on it normally the axle and axle nut would be delivering that load. So you must compensate or else deal with very early bearing failure. Dont over do the torque when tightening your fastener either, too much preload can be just as bad, use stock torque settings for the axle nut.

about half way down in this thread is shows an example of how this is accomplished
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/19...onversion.html

 

great find! love the thread... lots of pics... gave me some ideas on how to do some tings i plan...
on the bearing preload, im not completely sold on it, i see it would apply on tapered (cone shaped) bearings screwed on a spindle, but bearings pressed on a knuckle and a hub thats pressed as well, seems preload is already present with out the help of the axle... i assume the axles (fasteners in my case) will just hold the hub in its place... thanks for the info, i will research more into this...

 

Thats kinda how i started to think about it last night, a tapered bearing would have actual preload to keep the two halves together.

our one piece bearings are more just squeezed in place not really effected by the preload (considering the bolt will be compressing against the solid steel inner race) Im almost certain its just to have a stable and secure bearing and to help eliminate any freeplay or motion laterally

 

http://www.skf.com/files/005031.pdf

and then stuff like this makes me think we are not thinking correct.

Kinda makes no sense to purposely leave out the stock preload, so I would just do it for piece of mind, it seems to be a common consensus to do it, so why go against the grain when it could cost you money

 

the link just justified the preload being measured for spindle or tapered type application. but like you said, it will be more on peace of mind...

 

idk something i read said some preload, tho minimal for non tapered allows for some slight deformation that gives the bearings the proper clearances, but idk im add and have trouble reading/retaining stuff sometimes lol. but oh well! guess the more that we read the more we know relavent or not

 

im with u, i just have a bad habit of trying to make sense of things...